|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing engine and transmission mounts
I have a lovely 1973 220D that needs new engine/trans mounts. I am an amateur mechanic--I have only done basic maintenance stuff up till now. Would I be in over my head if I were to attempt this? If anyone has any advice, I would really appreciate it. Thanks!!
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
For starters, most people are going to have you use the search function because there are already many posts on this.
Some things you need to know: - Your car chassis is a W115. You will need this when looking up chassis info such as suspension parts that are not specific to engine. - Your engine is an om616 but also referred to as just 616. It is very similar to the 617. Here is a DIY page. Just find the one that says 617 Engine Mounts and you should be good.
__________________
1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Isn't the 220D a OM615, not 616?
As far as degree of difficulty, I did the motor mounts on my 1978 240D (which is a different chassi but similar engine to yours) and it really was not tough. I did the transmission mount on my other car (87 300D) last night and that was even easier. I have a reasonable amount of experience but certainly am not an expert or "seasoned veteran." I wouldn't recommend it to someone who's never picked up a wrench, but it's not a bad "next step" kind of job if you have a few simpler things under your belt. Just be sure to jack up the engine carefully using a floor jack and a 2X4 under the oil pan, AND be very careful not to strip the allen-headed bolts ... clean out the allen recesses first and make sure your wrench has a good seat. jonbob is correct that you can find a lot of basics through search, but if you're baffled by something or need something clarified, folks here are very helpful.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Oh yeh...615. Oops
__________________
1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I get kind of scared doing things the first time. Usually my luck has it that some bolt is crooked or something doesnt want to work just right and what should be an hour job turns into five or worse, I need to take the car someplace.
I decided (had) to tackle mounts when doing oil cooler lines on my 82. The overall job definitely took a while, but it was really pretty straightforward to do the mounts. So long as you can find the proper bolts that hold them down, and so long as they come out (perhaps prep by soaking them with a penetrating fluid of your choice a week before), then all is well. You do need a hydraulic jack and some lumber...
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Helga,
Welcome to the forum !! Its great to see that you provided the model of the car you have. Makes it easier for those responding. When you get a chance, could you please put those details along with your location in your signature. Often there are forum members close by who are happy to help!! We all hope that you will find all you need to know on here. Bohdi (post 3) recently replaced the rear mount on one of her cars. The thread about it is very informative & will provide you with many hints. Her comments in post 3 are very much right. If you are doing your own maintenance, Oil/filters etc, you are probably up to the mounts. If you do a search on engine mount replacement, I am sure you will find plenty of information. The minimum tool requirements would be; the correct size allen keys, socket set, box spanners & a jack. The center allen bolt, that you get at from underneath can be a pain if its seized, you will see that in some threads. Good Luck with your repair !!!
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Did them last night. On the transmission mount: remove the top nut BEFORE removing the retaining bracket. Otherwise you are twisting the whole drive train.
I must love the hard way.
__________________
77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
Bookmarks |
|
|