W210 E300 Suspension Rebuild & etc. Input? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

anghrist · #1 09-14-2010, 02:34 PM

Hey guys,
Been a while since posting anything here, but I thought this warranted attention. I have discovered that my LCA busings are totally shot (vibration, swaying and clunking). I pried on the front LCA busings and the wheels and tires would move in and out substantially. So I know that at the very least a replacement of the LCA busings are in order. As long as I am under the car I plan on the following:
Complete front and rear suspension rebuild -
H&R Front and Rear Springs w/new spring insulators
H&R Front and Rear Sway bars (If Todd at TM Engineering in Carson, CA will ship them to me).
KONI FSD Front and Rear (to replace original shocks)
KMAC Front Camber/Caster Kit
New Upper Control Arms (front)
New Tie rods and ends (front)
New Ball Joints (front)
New Spring Link w/bushing (rear)
New control arm set (rear)
New adjustable camber arms (rear)
New subframe bushings (rear)
New Motor Mounts
New Battery (chasing oil level and coolant level sensor gremlins)
Coolant Flush
Complete Brake system rebuild -
ATE slotted rotors (front & rear)
Parking brake rebuild
Akebono front & rear pads
Stainless Steel Braided lines
ATE Super Blue fluid (after flush)
Has anyone here installed the KMAC front comber/caster kit on the W210? If so why are two bushings skewed and the others just eccentric, and which go where?
Has anyone here ordered from TM Engineering in Carson, CA? How long do they take for order fulfillment? I can't wait too much longer.
I plan on taking about two days to accomplish all of the above. Then taking the car in for alignment, coolant flush and any remaining testing and diagnostics.
I've viewed some of the online DIYs and it seems like most of these can be done within a two day period. Any suggestions, comments, rude remarks?

TMAllison · #2 09-14-2010, 07:40 PM

I'd go with New factory LCA's. They come with bushings already installed installed. You'll appreciate not having to mess with pressing them in and out; isn't as easy as it seems due to the shape of the LCA.

EdzBenz · #3 09-14-2010, 09:51 PM

Don't forget new sway bar links in your list. Or, maybe I missed that cause you have a huge list!

My LCA bushings, tie rods, sway bar links and wheel bearings were just replaced. I went with polyurethane LCA bushings which were pressed back into the LCA's. I had my indy do this work and it wasn't terrible for him or on my wallet. I figured I didn't want to have to do this work again on the LCA's and the polyurethane bushings are the only permanent solution. Plus, the handling of the poly bushings will correspond with the type of handling with what you'll get out of your upgraded suspension set up.

anghrist · #4 09-15-2010, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdzBenz

Don't forget new sway bar links in your list. Or, maybe I missed that cause you have a huge list!

Replacing sway bar links and upgrading to H&R sway bars.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdzBenz

My LCA bushings, tie rods, sway bar links and wheel bearings were just replaced. I went with polyurethane LCA bushings which were pressed back into the LCA's. I had my indy do this work and it wasn't terrible for him or on my wallet. I figured I didn't want to have to do this work again on the LCA's and the polyurethane bushings are the only permanent solution. Plus, the handling of the poly bushings will correspond with the type of handling with what you'll get out of your upgraded suspension set up.

That's what I am hoping for. 90% of my driving is on the freeways of the California deserts and central valley (flat and straight). But every once in a while I like to run through the canyons to play on the twisties.

speednjay · #5 09-15-2010, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdzBenz

Don't forget new sway bar links in your list. Or, maybe I missed that cause you have a huge list!

My LCA bushings, tie rods, sway bar links and wheel bearings were just replaced. I went with polyurethane LCA bushings which were pressed back into the LCA's. I had my indy do this work and it wasn't terrible for him or on my wallet. I figured I didn't want to have to do this work again on the LCA's and the polyurethane bushings are the only permanent solution. Plus, the handling of the poly bushings will correspond with the type of handling with what you'll get out of your upgraded suspension set up.

where did you get the poly bushings?

anghrist · #6 09-15-2010, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speednjay

where did you get the poly bushings?

FP Groton has the polyurethane bushings for the LCAs. http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/22488/nm/Mercedes_Control_Arm_Polyurethane_Bushings_ADUS_598/category_id/181

I plan on using KMAC's camber/caster kit that supplies polyurethane bushings with a great deal of adjustment.

speednjay · #7 09-16-2010, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anghrist

FP Groton has the polyurethane bushings for the LCAs. http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/22488/nm/Mercedes_Control_Arm_Polyurethane_Bushings_ADUS_598/category_id/181

I plan on using KMAC's camber/caster kit that supplies polyurethane bushings with a great deal of adjustment.

the information says the bushings are just for the inner lower of the control arm..is tthat a typo? will 1 kit do 1 control arm?

anghrist · #8 09-15-2010, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

I'd go with New factory LCA's. They come with bushings already installed installed. You'll appreciate not having to mess with pressing them in and out; isn't as easy as it seems due to the shape of the LCA.

I understand that they can be a bit of a challenge. I'm setting aside four days to accomplish all of this work. I was thinking ahead and have already aqcuired a LCA busing tool. I know that this will help diminish the frustrtation but not totally remove it.

speednjay · #9 09-15-2010, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anghrist

I understand that they can be a bit of a challenge. I'm setting aside four days to accomplish all of this work. I was thinking ahead and have already aqcuired a LCA busing tool. I know that this will help diminish the frustrtation but not totally remove it.

hey if you want a hand with the work i dont live too far from you and would like to get some hands on experience. i'll be doing the same stuff on my car sometime in the near future.

anghrist · #10 09-16-2010, 04:05 PM

I've had to order the H&R Sway Bars from another supplier (JDM Performance in Staten Island). The folks at TM Engineering in Carson, CA would not respond to any of my e-mails or even pick up the phone. E-mailed and faxed in requests to cancel the order with them.

Picked up the H&R Springs today, most of the other stuff is in the garage just waiting...

EdzBenz · #11 09-16-2010, 04:27 PM

What was the total cost for the H&R Sway bars? Please post an update once you install everything. I've heard that the bushings on the H&R sways squeak during operation. Thanks,

anghrist · #12 09-16-2010, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdzBenz

What was the total cost for the H&R Sway bars? Please post an update once you install everything. I've heard that the bushings on the H&R sways squeak during operation. Thanks,

I got the swaybars for $401 delivered. (I think I probably could've found the stock E55 versions for less)

Yeah, I read that the bushings can squeak on the H&R sawybars, but I suspect that if other parts of the suspension are worn, then the H&R swaybar bushings will probably not last long. That's one reason that I'm replacing all of it in one go.

anghrist · #13 10-17-2010, 09:08 AM

Okay folks,

After day four and the job is still going. I've learned some valuable lessons thus far:

1) Check your aftermarket bushing sizes to make sure they will fit. Waiting on replacements now.
2) Disconnect your sway bar when removing front springs. It is just easier and also the perscibed method.
3) Stuck bolts are a pain. The front sway bar brackets are held on with 8mm x 1.25 pitch thread bolts that have external torx heads. One of mine froze about halfway out. Drill and extractor bit were the only option that would work. Threads cleaned and everthingnis back on track.
4) Spend time reviewing all R&R procedures as well as all aftermarket installation instructions.
5) Rear sway bar comes out when "most" of the rear subframe is detached. Used one bolt to keep subframe in place and a tranny jack to lower the rest of the subframe. Swaybar can then be slid out to the side very easily.

speednjay · #14 10-25-2010, 12:31 PM

What kind of a job were the rear subframe bushings? Specifically the front of the rear bushings. Can they be swapped without special tools?

anghrist · #15 10-26-2010, 12:16 PM

Okay folks,

I've finished the rebuild and have a few little things that I can share.

I installed the H&R Sport Springs on my can and I can say that they definitely give the car a more aggressive stance; however, it's not for me. I have realised that here in Southern California (the land of high curbs and parking pylons and oppressively deep street surface drainage channels) I much perfer the stock ground clearance to the sport stance given by the H&R springs. The stiff cornering and increased surface feedback are fine, but I plan on changing our for the stock springs to get the old Mercedes feel back.

The H&R Front Sway bar offers just a bit more stiffness than stock. I did more research and the E300 appears to come with a stock 27mm front sway bar. The E55 has a 29mm front sway bar, and the H&R is a 30mm sway bar. My opinion is that the H&R though thicker, may offer a bit of added stiffness, but I, personally, can not tell that much difference. The H&R rear sway bar seemed to be exactly the same size and weight as the stock, but that was just by eyeballing it.

KMAC bushings rule. Really! This was probably the best thing I've done for my car since I bought it. These bushings will likely last the lifetime of the vehicle and give a very large degree of adjustment to correct those camber issues we see with the W210. I also lubed the bushing caps to ensure that they do not squeak and that they will move appropriately during ajdustment. Removal of the old bushings goes well with the help of the perscribed removal tool (I have one of these now), liquid wrench, and an air hammer. I can remove the bushings from the LCA in about 7-10 minutes this way. The KMAC bushings press right in as easy as pie. Stock bushings should be pressed in with the perscribed R&R tool.

Subframe busings should not be changed without the proper tools or you risk your sanity. I rented the toolkit from 'marcmayer' on the www.benzworld.com forum. This made the task much easier. Also an air hammer made removal of the forward bushing remains quick and easy as well.

Rear hub carrier bushings do wear out. Who would have thought that these were as worn as they were. I had no idea how bad they were until I actually pulled them off the car.

New sway bar end links are on the way for the original sway bar. I will rebush and reinstall it when I reinstall the original springs this weekend. I cleaned the sway bar and springs last night with Simple Green and sprayed the spring bottoms with Waxoyl Hardwax Undercoat where there was some minor surface rust. Will probably treat the swaybar where the old bughings wore away the paint with the Waxoyl as well once it's remounted on the car.