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#1
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*pop* then both rear wheels lock
I was driving on the Interstate and I heard a pop then the car could barely make 60 mph at 3k rpm. I got off at the next exit and parked. Both back wheels were hot as the dickens. I had it flat towed home. I was able to drive it up on the tow bed after it had cooled. I am entirely unfamiliar with brake repair (other than bicycles). I jacked it up and tried loosening the hose to see if that released it(it did not).
I can not tell for sure if the caliper is locked or the emergency brake. Short of taking off the caliper is there a way to test? Thanks for all replies. __________________
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1985 300D Last edited by squishware; 10-05-2010 at 08:34 PM. |
#2
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My "guess" is that the emergency brake would not have caused that symptom. the emergency brake is not going to survive 3000 rpm straight gear. Sounds like the calipers have seized. After the flat tow home the brake fluid would have had enough time to stop boiling and return to normal temp. If there are still stuck thats beyond my experience.
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
#3
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rust from water in the brake fluid corrodes the piston and or the sleeve, and causes the brakes to sieze in place. sometimes they can be rebuilt, but it's much simpler to get a set of rebuilt calipers.
does your parking brake pedal push and release? jack the car up, and remove the wheels, and see if you can pry each pad away from the rotor with a screwdriver. if they move freely, disconnect the calipers from the two 19mm bolts, and push them off the rotor, then pull the rotor off and see if you have parking brake action.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#4
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The thing that is still making me curious is the fact that both wheels locked at once. It seems logical to me that maybe its something both have in common? I just want to throw that out there. Also the pop.
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1985 300D |
#5
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could be a differential problem, but you said the wheels were hot. I'd focus on brakes for the moment.
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#6
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I meant more the master cylinder or booster. Is that possible?
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1985 300D |
#7
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Where you using the brakes at the time? A blown booster cannot lock the wheels, and I've never herd of a master cylinder locking in the pressurized position, although I suppose it's possible, seems more likely to be the parking brake though... pull er apart and find out..
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#8
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Will Do in the morning. Thanks for the help.
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1985 300D |
#9
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The pop could have been some junk on the road being bounced up & jamming the park brake cable.
You do need to look at the calipers though.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#10
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When was the last time you flushed the brake fluid?
When was the last time you did any maintenance with the brakes? (Pads, calipers, hoses, etc)
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1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
#11
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I've had the car for about a month and a half. I haven't got around to brakes yet.
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1985 300D |
#12
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There have been reports of flex discs coming apart and snagging the parking brake cable.
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#13
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Or maybe he hit a mattress?
Post 20. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=205055&page=2 |
#14
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FYI
Quote:
* The brake fluid flashes to vapor/steam generating a massive 1/10 second over pressure forcing back past the restriction = blowing back through the master cylinder = the small fluid return port can make an audible pop. * The brake fluid flashes to vapor/steam generating a massive 1/10 second over pressure Hyper Extending/jamming the corroded piston/housing = hose or caliper seal pop/burst = pressure relief leaving the corroded piston/housing Hyper Extended/Locked on the rotor. * Brakes, bearing grease and/or tire catch fire. Brake: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142411 Some Facts About Brake Hoses: #1. The the industry standard average safety life of a brake hose is six years. FYI data SAE: J1401, J1703, J1705, J1873, J1406, J1288, J1403, J1833, J1402. #2. Brake hoses deteriorate from the inside as well as the outside. #3. Moisture is absorbed into brake fluid systems through brake hoses. #4. Contaminants in brake fluid act abrasively on the inner wall of brake hoses. #5. The brake hose reinforcing fabric deteriorates through expansion and moisture. #6. High operating temperatures contribute to the deterioration of hoses. #7. Brake hoses swell with age and restrict flow. #8. Generally all brake hoses on a vehicle deteriorate at the same rate, So all hoses should be replaced if one is found to be faulty! Brake hose failure mode: #A. Rupture (burst hose) = age, exercise (too many miles) or impact are the typical cause. *B. Partial internal collapse = the inner ply becomes damaged/detached acting as a partial restriction and/or one way valve. #C. Full internal Blockage = the inner ply becomes damaged/detached acting as a plug = brake pedal still feels good but there is no brake application. Brake: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142411 New brake hoses on a used car are cheap life insurance. Brakes caught fire 1999 C280 (with pictures of damage) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=208962 Tell my dad my tire is on fire! ![]() http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=105730 Industry Adopts Brake Fluid Replacement Guidelines By Bill Williams, Technical Contributor http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50412.htm Brake flush every two years?! U'r kidding right? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=96852&page=1&pp=15 Why should I flush my brake fluid every year, you ask? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=220599 Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#15
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WHunter- Is your prediction that I'll need, Master Cylinder, brake lines and 2 new Calipers? 4 calipers? Thanks for your help this would explain both at once going.
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1985 300D |
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