not another clutch bleeding thread

[KenB]

Well, I completely rebuilt an OM617 myself and it runs great for over 10k miles now.

I converted an automatic wagon to 5-speed manual and did a practically factory-neat installation with all t's crossed and i's dotted.

But I cannot bleed the stupid clutch myself. I give up. I am having it towed for someone else to try.

I am not looking for suggestions on how. I have tried ALL methods in the archives. I'm just writing this to 1) vent, and 2) give others who struggle with clutch bleeding some sympathy.

Thank you,
Ken
1980 300TD 5-speed..."sparkling" clutch hydraulic fluid, apparently

[layback40]

I think we need a "how to" in the tech section on bleeding. The most important thing I find is to make sure the MC is full of fluid (all bubbles gone) before installation on the car. 2 people, bleed nipple loose, push peddle to the floor slowly, with peddle on floor tighten nipple, release peddle, give it a few seconds, loosen nipple, press peddle to the floor, & repeat previous steps. Being lazy, I dont bother fully bleeding, once the peddle is operating the clutch, thats enough, let it come good of the next week or so of driving. It has worked for me for the past 40 years.

Sorry, I know you didnt want that description, but it appears that some just cant get their head around it yet others could do it blind folded.

[Stevo]

It sounds like something is wrong in your system, seems logical if you did all that rebuilding on your car you did the clutch bleed right but some component is bad. Keep us posted.

[KenB]

you may be right, stevo. it could be a bad slave cylinder after all. but i have lost patience to find out myself (and i'm usually not the give-up type) and will be happy if my local indy of choice can just take it from here for a reasonable fee.

i will let you all know.

ken

[KenB]

update: after towing it to a shop (free) to have it bled, they called me to tell me they couldn't do it either (therefore, no charge). They said they couldn't get any air out despite a good strong flow.

So I got to thinking...

Then I had one of those A-HA moments. I realized that the pedal is not soggy like one would expect with air in the line. It's nothing up top, then decently firm down low and comes back half way on its own. At first I remembered the 2 pushrod sizes for the master cylinder and thought I might have the wrong one but that checked out. Then I realized that when I put the pedal box together I totally cheated on the eccentric adjuster because I didn't have one and just blew it off. Left it out. Nothing there but an M8 bolt! Of course too much play there. Well, I still don't have that eccentric bolt because no dealer has it in my area--I called. So, I fabricated an eccentric sleeve by drilling out one of the 6mm spacer sleeves that is used in holding up the auto trans fluid lines to the oil pan. I hope it works--won't know until Monday because my car is locked up in the shop I brought it to, but I am pretty optimistic that it will. But I think reappropriating ATF line spacers to work as a clutch adjuster eccentric would be a really fitting and poetic end to a manual conversion project.

Anybody think this won't work? The "eccentricity" of my fabbed piece isn't quite as extreme as the original part I saw a picture of. Or if anyone has an extra one they wouldn't mind parting with, let me know.

Thanks,
KenB
1980 300TD, too much clutch pedal play, not enough throw to make the magic happen in the bellhousing

[layback40]

Great to here that you have a lead Ken !! Some times its not only the part thats a bit eccentric !!

[KenB]

UPDATE #2:

My eccentric bushing for the master cylinder pushrod seems to have worked just fine. Gave me much more throw. But not quite enough still. I realized my short, white-headed pushrod was not gonna do it. No long pushrods available at USA Benz dealers! So I went back to the fabricating and welded in 7mm to my short pushrod. That seems to be the correct difference.

Ok, clutch WORKS!

but the car drives like crap. serious, serious crap. I think that this must be due to my having removed all the vacuum lines from the injection pump (not the shut-off valve. i'm not THAT dumb.). so...i'm going to put that silly automatic vacuum set-up back on and see if that doesn't fix it.

Stay tuned.

KenB

[KenB]

of course, amazing performance and driveability gains can be made by connecting the correct shift rods to the correct shifter arms.