Axle bolts to differential ... can't get bit in them - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Billybob · #16 11-07-2010, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

Well, after putting this on the shelf for two weeks due to vacation followed by being sick, I'm back at it. The current status is: Driveshaft off, exhaust off, springs out, shocks and swaybar detached, ABS sensor out, drain hose out. I just need to get the parking brake cable off ... and to be honest, have no idea how to do so. I'm assuming it involves the bracket up underneath the driveshaft, but the FSM is very vague and I don't want to break anything. Guess I'll try to find a more detailed section of the FSM, but if anyone has a quick description of how to remove the cable, please share ... it's the last thing keeping me from lowering the frame.

Hey! The parking brake adjuster has a 10 or a 13 mm horizontal center bolt that tensions and slackens it, adjust that to maximize the slack. Then from below there is a 10 mm bolt you only see the head which secures the front parking brake cable to the adjuster, remove that bolt and the front cable will be released, don't loose the bolt it is a special design. with the cables slack and disconnected at the front, the adjuster can be unhooked from the frame slot in which it rides, then you can maneuver it to slip the twp rear cable ends off the hooks on the adjuster.

Then all you need to do is remove the flat spring clips the secure the cable's metal ends to the chassis brackets and then push the grommets and the cable together out of the rings that hold them. It's easier to remove the grommets and the cable than to pull the cable out of the grommets usually.

BodhiBenz1987 · #17 11-08-2010, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billybob

Hey! The parking brake adjuster has a 10 or a 13 mm horizontal center bolt that tensions and slackens it, adjust that to maximize the slack. Then from below there is a 10 mm bolt you only see the head which secures the front parking brake cable to the adjuster, remove that bolt and the front cable will be released, don't loose the bolt it is a special design. with the cables slack and disconnected at the front, the adjuster can be unhooked from the frame slot in which it rides, then you can maneuver it to slip the twp rear cable ends off the hooks on the adjuster.

Then all you need to do is remove the flat spring clips the secure the cable's metal ends to the chassis brackets and then push the grommets and the cable together out of the rings that hold them. It's easier to remove the grommets and the cable than to pull the cable out of the grommets usually.

Thanks!!!

That was easy enough!

Now, for the next issue: The good news is, I got everything off and started to drop the subframe ... but, the back half won't drop. The bolts are all out, of course, but when I go to lower it, just the front lowers and hangs from the back. I tried gently coaxing the back mounts off the frame with a prybar, but didn't really want to go to town on it and damage something. Is there something I'm missing here? I don't think it's hung up on anything. Are the bushing sleeves just stuck to the frame posts maybe? If so, should I try torching them, or keep prying? I'm trying to be careful because I don't want it to suddenly pop free and crash down. Obviously I have the jack under it (plus an extra scissor jack) but still don't want any sudden lurches.
Help?

BodhiBenz1987 · #18 11-14-2010, 11:09 PM

Just an update, after getting the frame off I spent a solid 15 minutes partially cleaning out one bolt enough to see it is indeed a m10 XZN head under all that grit. I couldn't get it to turn and am not going to push it until I get a better XZN bit. Mine has the end chipped off so it doesn't get a full purchase in there, not going to risk stripping it. When I get a bit I'll use the air wrench. Between this and getting the axle nuts off, I have quite a bit of labor ahead of me.

Thanks for the help!

Billybob · #19 11-15-2010, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

Just an update, after getting the frame off I spent a solid 15 minutes partially cleaning out one bolt enough to see it is indeed a m10 XZN head under all that grit. I couldn't get it to turn and am not going to push it until I get a better XZN bit. Mine has the end chipped off so it doesn't get a full purchase in there, not going to risk stripping it. When I get a bit I'll use the air wrench. Between this and getting the axle nuts off, I have quite a bit of labor ahead of me.

Thanks for the help!

I found the M10 XZN MB # 601 589 00 10 00 HAZET #2751 tool available from my local dealership for about $17, that's with no discount! Which is at least $10-15 less expensive than anywhere else! Might take a couple days to get it though. Usually when removing these bolts I've found the best way is with enough extension/s to get the inpact wrench outside the wheel hub and a universal joint right after the tool to allow it to get a nice straight and square contact with the bolt head, but with the subframe completely out you might be able to get the impact and tool in from the top and get a good shot at the bolts from that angle.

BodhiBenz1987 · #20 11-15-2010, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billybob

I found the M10 XZN MB # 601 589 00 10 00 HAZET #2751 tool available from my local dealership for about $17, that's with no discount! Which is at least $10-15 less expensive than anywhere else! Might take a couple days to get it though. Usually when removing these bolts I've found the best way is with enough extension/s to get the inpact wrench outside the wheel hub and a universal joint right after the tool to allow it to get a nice straight and square contact with the bolt head, but with the subframe completely out you might be able to get the impact and tool in from the top and get a good shot at the bolts from that angle.

Excellent ... I have to go to the dealer anyway to pick up a few bolts and tidbits, so I'll ask if they can get it.