A friend worked at a Belle Tire. For about a year they really pushed brake fluid services. But, remember in Michigan everything rusts, including brake bleeder valves. So when you tell the customer their bleeder valve snapped off and they need a new caliper they won't be happy! The service was quietly dropped.

Changing the fluid on time means it's much less likely the bleeders will rust in place!

-J

So what's the thinking behind recommending changing the
brake fluid in the Spring?

Jeff

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

new flowers, new fluid? winter snow and cold conditions cause more water to get in the fluid? more fluctuations in the winter temp from operating temp to parked temp get more condensation in?

All the moisture of the wintertime.

-J

How often should I do it? Every year per the manual. How often have I done it? Once since '04

Installed a rebuilt master cylinder (original was leaking), bled while new MC was installed on the car. Found out I have a slightly cracked brake hose on right rear.

My mechanic also washed the brake fluid reservoir with DOT 4 to flush the gunk inside.

Do you guys recommend regular rubber brake hoses (standard replacement) or stainless steel braided lines?

__________________
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

there's a thread on here about stainless lines, not recommended.

Thanks, found the threads and recommendations NOT to go SS.

__________________
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

DexKill is another problem I haven't sorted out on her car yet. I got the coolant changed, but the radiator still needs replacement because it's full of brown goo.

-J

every two years, allows for a good inspection at the same time -