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  #1  
Old 10-18-2010, 12:45 PM
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Oil Filter Change

Does the oil need to be drained to do an oil filter change?

I'm looking at the manual and it says to unscrew oil coolers lines, line towards oil pressure gauge, and oil feed line. Will this cause a huge mess?

I know this might sound stupid (be patient) but do all those lines need to be unscrewed or can I just change the filter without doing all that?

digi

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  #2  
Old 10-18-2010, 12:54 PM
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Usually no one does that, but you will drain the oil that is left behind in those lines.

They can be difficult to deal with, I don't bother.

I do drain the oil pan and swap filters before I add new oil.
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:55 PM
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Ok maybe I should just wait till the next oil change to change the filter then. about another 2500 miles.
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:56 PM
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You can change filters anytime without doing an oil change.

Just swap 'em out, due to the design, you don't lose much oil.
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:00 PM
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So hold on ha! Not sure if I understood correctly. I can do the filter change without having to unscrew those lines?
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  #6  
Old 10-18-2010, 01:06 PM
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yup, just two 13MM nuts on top of the cannister and lift the top to expose the filter.
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  #7  
Old 10-18-2010, 01:08 PM
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Remove the 2 nuts that hold the lid on, lift out the filter, and drop in new filter, replace the large rubber "O" ring under the lid. snug down the 2 lid nuts. do not over tighten them or you will strip out the studs that screw down into the aluminum housing.

Might be good to replace the 2 little "O" rings on the lid shaft. probably hard as a rock now.

Charlie
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:24 PM
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^ Correct, just remove the lid, it has a stem and a couple of "O" rings, as mentioned. I would think they need replacing.

The filter comes with a large "O" ring for under the lid.
Attached Thumbnails
Oil Filter Change-oil-stem-o-rings.jpg   Oil Filter Change-oil-filter-lid.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:51 PM
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I've never taken those cooler lines loose unless I was making a major repair.

My oil and filter gets changed simultaneously at 5,000 miles. Take the plug out of the drain pan, collect oil. Take filter canister lid off, replace filter, put finger full of clean oil on the rubber o-ring and sealing surfaces of the new filter. Re-close canister, go under and put the plug back, refill. Done.

Cooler and lines don't hold enough to worry about. Yes, it's enough to blacken the new oil instantly, but that doesn't really matter.
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  #10  
Old 10-18-2010, 03:02 PM
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Removing the Oil Cooler Lines at the Oil Cooler sometimes results in damage to the Aluminum threaded Nipples on the Oil Cooler.

What happens is the Oil Cooler Nipple threads corrode to the Seel Oil Cooler line nut. When you turn the Nut the piece/s of thread stuck to the nut cut up the threads as you unscrew the nut.(This happend to me)

In our DIY Repair section there is some ways to avoid this probem; and if it does happen there is a repair for that.
Also Oil changes are covered there also.
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:24 PM
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I would ONLY remove the cover on the oil filter housing. No need to touch any of the other lines at all. And, change the oil and filter at the same time.
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2010, 03:55 PM
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I agree...don't fool with the oil lines unless absolutely necessary. If you really want to get all the old oil out, get a Mityvac and it will suck all that stuff out through the dip stick hole. I borrow one from my local marina. They use it on boat engines.
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  #13  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daman858 View Post
If you really want to get all the old oil out, get a Mityvac and it will suck all that stuff out through the dip stick hole.
That's not going to be one bit more effective than removing the drain plug. And it most certainly won't suck the oil out of the oil cooler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daman858 View Post
They use it on boat engines.
Usually because the oil drain plug isn't readily accessible, not because it's otherwise more effective.
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  #14  
Old 10-18-2010, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digieditny View Post
So hold on ha! Not sure if I understood correctly. I can do the filter change without having to unscrew those lines?
are you wanting to just change the FILTER, or the entire filter housing? do you have an oil leak on the filter housing mount or something? othewise, normal oil changes, and filter changes you just pull the two nuts off the filter lid like described above.
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  #15  
Old 08-30-2012, 12:56 PM
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filling oil filter

I am a newbie here & to mercedes diesels. How do you fill the filter on these engines to avoid a dry start after oil change? (90 300D 2.5 Turbo)

Any help appreciated.

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