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#1
10-24-2010, 05:19 AM
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Engine Mounts Replacement DIY
Hello, I have seen some DIY threads about other chassis, but I was wondering if anybody has better info with pictures and safety tips.
How do I do this? the mechanic wants 300! 
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#2
10-24-2010, 06:38 AM
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Its 3 bolts, loosen them, the one underneath is best done first. Put a jack under the motor with a block of wood on it. Take the bolts right out, jack it up enough to get the old mount out & the new one in. Start the bolts & then lower the jack. do the bolts up & then do the other side. If all is good, less than 1 hr each side.
The bolt from underneath can be a PITA. Maybe that's why he wants $300.
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....  1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles  1987 250td 160k miles English import  2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles  1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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#3
10-24-2010, 01:00 PM
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If you have dampers attached I'd also undo them before jacking up the engine - just in case.
Also consider doing the gearbox mount whilst you're at it.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#4
10-24-2010, 02:44 PM
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Layback pretty much covered the process and Army pointed out the engine shocks. I'm just posting to let you know that it is a very simple procedure and as far as safety is concerned it's very safe.
The engine cannot fall out and crush you, as long as you do one side at a time. Even with both sides at once it would be difficult to fall down. And the only real pain is getting the allen on the top side of the mount closest to block on driver side out. I would definitely not pay $300. I'd do it for beer if you were nearby. Just a post for encouragement.
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#5
10-24-2010, 09:01 PM
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Did mine in the gravel driveway with a borrowed floor jack and some plywood under it. One side went fine, the other was as easy to get out but getting the engine to align with the new one required prying, crowbars and 2x4's to horse the engine around a bit to get it to line up. Oh yeah- that was the side where the mount came out in two pieces...
Clean, clean, clean the allen head bolts before you start. I spent the $$ to get some allen head sockets. The engine shocks have been covered- You may need to loosen the fan shroud- watch it as you jack up the engine.
__________________
95 E300D gave away 77 300D, 227k, station car 83 300CD 370k, body gone away to the rust gods, engine is in a Yota pickup, going strong 89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more 79 VW FI Bus- 154k summer driver 59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k 12 VW Jetta- 250k 74 MG Midget-78k
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#6
10-24-2010, 09:22 PM
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disconnect the throttel linkage and fan shroud before you jack up the engine...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#7
10-24-2010, 11:58 PM
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Answer
Quote:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=287152 .
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/
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#8
10-25-2010, 10:03 AM
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I just did mine a couple of weeks ago with zero experience and some basic research on here and a couple of phone calls to friends. All the bolts came out easily for me. The trickiest is the top side bolts on the passenger side. You have to sort of reach from underneath and feel for them since the inner one is not accessible from the top. I sprayed PB Blaster on each bolt before trying to get it out for good measure.
__________________
 "Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD
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