I'm pretty sure this is straight forward but are there any tips or warnings I should know before going in?

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1984 300td euro turbo

After you ream, turn the motor a few times to blow all that crap out before you put the glow plugs back in.

Thanks! Going out in a sec to do it. If the car turns on with the glow plugs removed, is that bad for the engine?

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1984 300td euro turbo

Just make sure the wires that go to the glow plugs are not touching anything metal or you might blow a fuse, no it wont hurt the motor. Just let it crank a few times to blow all that crap out.

You can use wire to hold down the STOP lever so the motor cannot start but will still crank.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

If you can start an engine with glow plugs out, I want that engine!

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Man! Do you guys remove the injector lines before attempting to remove the glow plugs. Finding it very difficult to get in there!!!!

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1984 300td euro turbo

1/4 inch sockets, a swivel are useful tools. Be Careful when removing the glow plugs. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE TO REMOVE THEM. (1/4 inch drive should give you plenty of leverage No extension like a breaker bar) Use plenty of PB Blaster to loosen them. Give the PB Blaster time to soak.

You don't want to end up like this: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/BrokenGlowPlug

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

Probably more info here than you'll ever want to know:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1019018

I removed the injector lines on mine. Do not disassemble them. Others say they can get to the GPs with the lines in place. If you can get the GPs out with the the lines in place, I'd recommend doing it that way since you're limited to the street and don't want to complicate the job.

I also used the "dab of grease" on the edge of the reamer technique to catch the carbon and also wired down the stop lever.

It can be done both ways and there are champions of both approaches. I could never get to them with my huge hands with the lines in place. It only takes 10 minutes, max, to remove them as a group. Seems ridiculous to do it any other way. I have trouble getting to #5 even without the lines in place. I don't see how folks manage it with the lines.

Grease the Flutes (grooves) of the Reamer; the Grease will trap the Carbon.

I put a Never-seeze type compound on the Glow Plug threads before I install them. But, the 617 Engines seldom have a problem with the threaded area of the Glow Plugs being seized.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ratcheting combination wrench.

Aside from the theoretical flames shooting out the GP holes, it shouldn't cause too many problems!!! In practice, compression engines have a tough time starting with zero compression and no glow plugs.

I change them with the injector lines in place, but I can't remember how difficult it is.
I just fear the leaking injector line after removing/replacing. Sometimes they just don't like that.......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Theoretical flames? With what theoretical ignition source?

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1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
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