I have read at least 15 threads on IP timing and the part I'm still unclear on is this; I have the crank at 24 deg, I have the back of the car jacked high, the fuel system is bled, I am using the drip tool method and have removed the delivery valve and spring, so when the timing is right should I have a drip without pumping the primer assuming I've used the primer to get fuel flowing initially right? the drip should continue on it's own without pumping the primer? This is the part I'm not getting. Having done all this if I keep pumping I get slightly more more a drip per second and the drip stops if I stop pumping. I'm working on a '82 300SD, I've rebuilt the injectors, adjusted the valves, glow plugs are all good. This car would not start on it's own before without WD-40 and a jump, now it starts on its own and idles without warmup but idles like a Top Fueler and blows black smoke so I'm suspecting that the IP timing still isnt right heeelllpp!!!

The objective is to obtain the one drip/sec when the IP is under pressure. The "residual" drip is meaningless.

I have a few questions as well.

1. How much fuel pressure is needed?

2. I do not have a primer pump. anymore. Can an electric pump be used instead.

3. Are there seals in the delivery valve that needs replacing after doing drip timing?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

judging by what you've said Tango, I'm at least in the ballpark with slightly more than a drip per sec?

To be sure, rotate the crankshaft and verify that the fuel flows freely as you approach 24 degrees BTDC and turns into a drip right at 24 degrees. The transition from "full flow" to "no flow" should happen very quickly.

thanks I'll try it and report back

I have done it with an Electric Pump on Mercedes and other Inline Fuel Injection Pumps and it is easier then using the Hand Primer.

Also one place I worked they had a gravity feed type set-up. But, when you do that you have to hook it up directly to the Fuel Injection Pump Housing; with the small one we had there would not have been enough pressure to push past the Valves in the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.

If you have an MW IP you are supposed to replace the Copper Crush Washer. If you have an M IP you are supposed to replace the O-ring and the Copper Crush Washer.

The last time I did mine I had not ordered any new Crush Washers. Since I have other vehicles to drive I fgured I would re-use the Old Crush Washer and if it leaked I would just let the Car sit till I got a new one.
So I lucked out and it did not leakd. However, If you do not replace the Copper Crush washer you cannot count on it not leaking.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel