I'm replacing the passenger side engine mount on my 1982 300td. The old one came out, no problem. The new one, problem. The bolt that holds the mount to the engine won't line up right, and it needs to go in Just Right to go in. I can see into the whole thing, but the hole that the screw needs to go into is off by about 1mm. Too much. I've tried lowering the engine onto the mount, I've tried just doing this with the engine up, nothing. Grrr....

Anybody else have this problem? I've got to have the car buttoned up in two hours, please help!

__________________
1982 300TD 300,??? miles, daily driver turned donor
1982 300TD, 184,000 miles, daily driver

You have to get some leverage - i.e., with a big crow-bar or a 2 x 4 - that you can manipulate and hold in place at the same time you are getting your bolt started. Use leverage to pry the engine into place; use a phillips screw driver as an alignment tool for the fine tuning; hold it all still and start your bolt by hand only - don't strip it out!

I keep a 2x2 piece of wood in the garage just for manipulations like this.

I prefer the wood over a metal pry bar so that I have less risk of damaging a metal surface or engine accessory.

__________________
'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

Just grab the engine an push it in the desired direction.
Show it who is boss; it will move.

Wife worked the jack, I worked the bottom of the car, we moved it around until it worked. So much smoother now.

Thanks forum!

__________________
1982 300TD 300,??? miles, daily driver turned donor
1982 300TD, 184,000 miles, daily driver

one plus one when it comes to help in mechanic work equals like 65. Working with help gets work done SO much faster.

__________________

77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

I always get the big bolt from underneath started first. Its easy to lever the mount around to get the little ones in from the top.
Did the w124 left hand one yesterday, took all of 40 minutes, only 2 bolts.
Nipped up the wheel bearings 1/4 of a turn, they had play, 1/4 of a turn just got rid of it. Will check with a gauge when I am in a better frame of mind.
With the mount & bearings better the wagon is so much smoother.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Amen to that. Cold started in 28 degree weather, started right up, vibrations so much less noticeable now.

Now all I need to do is sort out the final drive sounds. Fingers crossed for a pinion bearing....

__________________
1982 300TD 300,??? miles, daily driver turned donor
1982 300TD, 184,000 miles, daily driver

I had this prob once -you might loosen the other mount a little and then rock the engine using the sump, just use your hands and check each time, you'll get there