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#1
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Anyone in Los Angeles doing a valve adjustment soon where i can watch?
only had my 240D's a month now, so am learning how to get them going better... i think i can handle a valve adjustment from the posts ive found and the tutorial on dieselgiant.. but, i figured i'd ask to see if anyone in los angeles is gonna be doing one and wouldn't mind me watching so i get the hang of it the first time...?
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1981 240D ... 265k 1977 240D ... 265k 1977 240D ... 250k |
#2
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kRpBbDtS5g&feature=related
close enough in fact they have 82 vids, all extremely good for the basics. http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=MossMotorsCom#g/u |
#3
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Where in LA are you?
You can PM me.
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#4
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Best you take a case of beer if you are going to watch some one. That is the minimum cost of learning !!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#5
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Quote:
W124 E300D- thanks for the link - i am still gonna need the bent wrenches to get in there? it seemed quite convenient for him with a normal wrench but he also has the engine on a table..\ ![]()
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1981 240D ... 265k 1977 240D ... 265k 1977 240D ... 250k |
#6
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I have done the valves too many times to remember with just plain wrenches. Its not that bad. There are plenty of other wrench jobs that are harder.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#7
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Quote:
I disagree with layback40 (who in my opinion normally gives out very good advice!):- I think you need to know what you are doing if you try and adjust valves with normal spanners. Although I can't prove it, I think damage to my OM617 head was done by someone being too rough during a valve adjustment (and knowing what I know about the Mercedes expert from whom I bought the car I expect the idiot used normal spanners) See:- http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=276144 (page 3) I also think it is much much better in the context of this thread to recommend a set of bent spanners as I think the user would need some experience before tackling this job without the recommended tools. If you are stuck for the correct tools this forum has a tool rental scheme. See also this recently updated thread:- http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107729
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#8
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I concede that you are probably right Army. Its just that I have never used the proper spanners. Maybe if I tried to use them I would mess it up !!
I do like my 250TD with a 602 motor, no valve adjustment !! Yay !! ![]()
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#9
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I've read several posts on this forum that recommend heating and bending your own set of spanners if you don't want to pay for the Hazet set (and I don't blame anyone for that!).
You may also need to grind the thickness of the spanner down a bit so you can turn the adjusting nuts individually without catching the nut next to it. I opted to buy a second hand set of wrenches. The full set comes with 3 spanners.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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I think you should use the proper bent wrenches. Theres a forum member Doc (in Tucson) who made mine for me. Price was fair and they work great!
On the subject of "possible damage being done." Some incompetent dick somewhere ****ed the adjustment nut on my number 1 Exhaust and number 5 intake valves at some time in the past before I got the car. I ground a 14mm spanner to accept the odd shape of those nuts and bent it so it would fit. One thing to note for your first valve adjustment that I don't think dieselgiant mentions. If the huge (30mm I think) flat nut on the valve spring is turning when you're loosening the lock nut (bottom nut if you're doing it factory way) you're not actually accomplishing anything. You'll need to find a way to keep it from turning while you make your adjustments. |
#11
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