Liquivac Opinion Poll

[jcd]

Thinking of buying a liquivac oil changing "system"

Opinions?

As am I. Sorry I can't answer your poll. It seems some of the other models for marine applications are a better product. Hope to see what others say.

[loubapache]

LiquiVac is good but my new Shurflo Oil Change System is better.

[Lance Allison]

I have the original Topsider (metal gas-can type container) and the Liquivac. While the Topsider has held up rather nicely, the Liquivac split at the top seam and now doesn't hold vacuum.

loubapache is right, the Shurflo system is great. I saw his link to this product in another post and ordered it on the spot. It arrived the other day and it sure is nice. It comes with a 3 1/2 plastic container, sort of like a downsized version of a 5 gal bucket. It's also motorized, so there is no need to manually establish vacuum. However, this item is a bit pricey, just over $100 delivered to your door.

If you need the link, let me know and I'll hunt it up.

[DieselHead]

I just bought an electric oil changer from JC Whitney for about $20 or so that worked out really well. I use it to siphon all sorts of crap, just making sure that I clean out the tubes well after use (using brake cleaner followed by water).

Alex

[loubapache]

DieselHead:

I have used that too but it eventually burned out. The one I bought is from a store chain called Meijer here in Michigan (I still see them selling it). The failure mode was that it pumped too slow and finally I saw some smoke from the pump.

Or you can buy some bulk hose at a hardware store and use one for oil, one for transmission fluid, ...

I've been bludgeoned for my comments in "topsider" discussions before, so I won't try to justify my own oil change procedure preferences.

I will, however, urge those who wish to take the oil out of the top to use a system which will allow you to do it at operating temperature, oil in the 220 degree Fahrenheit range.

There are huge advantages in drawing or draining the oil when hot. The contaminants are thoroughly mixed with the oil rather than stuck to everything inside the engine as they are when cold. The main reason you change oil is that it is the only way to clean the inside of the engine. Draining the oil when cold is like taking a shower with no soap.

Best of luck,

[Billybob]

I,ve had some past experiance with vacum cannister oil change apparatus on marine applications (DD 8-92TI's) these vac cans usually develope some type of leak that neccessitates multiple pumpings. The best solution we found was a $10 drill powered rotary pump. These pumps have a rubber impeller and can self prime up to 8'. They come with male hose bib connectors on for the inlet and outlet. You can either make up adapters to connect small diameter (1/4"- dipstick size) hose or some pumps have the inlet and outlet I.D. of 3/8", if so, then a small (3" long) piece of 3/8 can be inserted inside the punmp inlet and then the 1/4" hose will fit exactly inside the 3/8" piece. I use a 3" piece of 1'4" to put down the dipstick and a 6' piece of 3/8" as my discharge hose. I use milky white polyethelene hose that costs .15 to .25 per foot at the local hardware store, it's used to make plumbing connections i.e. icemakersP. S. I have extra hoses for transmission draining also. In 10 minutes you can drain nearly every drop (8+ qts.) of warmed oil, just make sure you crack the oil filter housing seal to allow the filter housing to completely drain. After draining you can either plug the hose end to prevent leakage or I disconnect the hose and use a small piece (3") of 1/4" for the 3/8" hose and 3/8" for the 1/4" hose to connect the two endsof the oil fouled hoses in a sealed loop! Neat and clean, they hang on the wall waiting for 3000 miles to pass!

[Billybob]

Pressed the wrong key and posted before I was done!!

I've taken this system further by attaching a 1/4" shaft 12 Volt motor to the 1/4" shaft of the pump with a flexible shaft coupling made from a short piece of 1/4"I.D. rubber hose and two spring clamps. Added two (red &black) battery clips, an inline 15A fuse and series connected toggle switch; all mounted to a piece of plywood that fitted to the inside of a "Tupperware" type rectangular plastic container. Two screw-on garden hose end caps seal the pump inlet and outlet.
When oil change time comes I just warm up the engine (5 min.) pop the hood , crack the filter housing, hook up the battery clips, put the hoses on, 1/4" down the tube, 3/8" into a empty 1gal. laundry detergent jug, hit the switch and presto! I use the 1 gal. jugs because I have them you just have keep an eye on them so they don't overflow, you could just as easily use a larger container (5 gal. bucket with lid!) if you mounted the motor/pump on a round piece of plywood (fits on top of your bucket) and used a couple of small springs or bungee cord you could have a Shurflo Cheapo Clone System for $20 max (12 volt motors are everywhere, and 5 gal buckets?) P. S. a 45 degree angle on the 1/4" hose end and a slight down hill tilt drains my 603 turbo nearly dry. Good luck to all!

[lizem100]

I asked this question several weeks ago and got many helpful replies. Here is what I did. I called the company that makes both products and asked what they thought. The lady said they worked about the same but she felt at some point the company would stop selling the Topsider and thus replacement parts. The Co that makes the metal cans does not like small jobs. One person mentioned Overton's and I looked at their page. They sell both items(Marina Pro=Liquivac) and also Pela products. I bought the large Pela siphon and used it on my 300E with 295K miles. The weather was cold =40F and I warmed the car for 5-10 minutes. I pumped it a few times and oil started flowing. I probably needed to pump it more to get it to come out quicker. When done I pulled the drain plug-NO oil came out. In the past when draining the oil from the plug, oil would drip for over and hour(I did not wait longer.) Thus I feel I get more oil out with suction. I chose the Pela as the hoses are stiff and prob less likely to collapse with heat/suction.

[oldsouth]

I guess i'm just from the old school, I like to get the car up on a rack and pull the plug. You can also check out a whole lot more from underneath.

[jcd]

Old South/Larry Bible win,

Although Billybob wins for the most creative approach, I'm sticking with the tried and true method. I wandered out in 10 F windchill and changed the oil the old fashioned way, oil hot, out of the drainplug. With the 20 minutes it took, most of this time waiting for a complete drain, the job is too easy to invest any $ in a device that will frustrate me.

Rather than the oil change device, I am getting the burlwood cupholder I saw in another thread.

Thanks for the advice, but I guess old habits die hard.

Jim