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  #1  
Old 12-24-2010, 12:17 AM
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Stuck on V-Belts: ALternator bolts frozen and tension bolt broken

I am nearly finished with my water pump replacement, but I am stuck on the belts.

The alternator bolts are completely frozen in place. I've heated and soaked them in penetrating oil.

I eventually got the bottom bolt to break free using a vice grip and mallet

How the heck do I get to the three bolts in the rear? I have the turbo in my way.

Also the bolt that adjusts the tension is broken. I feel as if this should be significantly easier than this appears to be.

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Old 12-24-2010, 12:26 AM
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If you have a 1985 300DT - 348,000 there are only 2 bolts holding the alternator in. You got the bottom one and there is one on top that holds the tension bracket to the block. Did you loosen the 17mm nut on the back side of the bracket that locks the tension bolt in place?
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Old 12-24-2010, 12:30 AM
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I loosened one 17mm bolt that is directly in front of the engine near the water pump and lower crankshaft.


If i'm laying underneath of my car there is a 2nd bolt that I loosened using my vice grips and a mallet.

How do I take care of this broken tension? The archives are a bit vague on this. It's broken exactly in the middle of the bolt.
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Old 12-24-2010, 12:40 AM
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There is a 17mm nut on the back side of the tension bracket that locks the tension nut in place. I'm lost without pictures.
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Old 12-24-2010, 12:46 AM
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I can see the bolt you're referring too, but there is no way I can get to it without removing the turbo.

Crap.
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Old 12-24-2010, 12:52 AM
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Something is not right here. Can you get a flex ratchet on the nut facing the firewall on the back side of the alternator bracket? The turbo should not be an issue.
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Old 12-24-2010, 12:57 AM
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I am not sure if this is the Alternator Bracket that you have. It is the same type as on my 84 300D.

The yellow Arrow points to the 17mm Bolt that needs to be loosend in before you try to move the Tensioner.
Attached Thumbnails
Stuck on V-Belts: ALternator bolts frozen and tension bolt broken-alternator-tensioner-bolt-1.jpg   Stuck on V-Belts: ALternator bolts frozen and tension bolt broken-alternator-adjustment-bolt-3.jpg  
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  #8  
Old 12-24-2010, 12:59 AM
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Now your talking (showing).
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Old 12-24-2010, 01:10 AM
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Ahh! That makes sense now.

Figures right after I completely sear off the rest of the tension bolt arm

I don't own an flex wratchet sadly. I'm trying to figure out what the hell can get back there.

This is absolutely miserable. Why did they have to make this so difficult when rusted
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  #10  
Old 12-24-2010, 01:22 AM
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When I removed my Alternator I removed the 2 bolts that held it to the Block and took the Alternator out with the Bracket still on the Alternator.

I did that because not realize the 17mm Bolt needed to be loosened and it was the only way I fitured to remove it.

If the skinny threaded part of the Tensioner is busted off you can replace it at over $40 each or find another way to tension the Belts and hold the Alternator in place while you lock down the 17mm Nut.

If you decide to replace the Tensioner Bolt but are unable to use to origiona Tensioner Nut (I have not seen any part places selling the correct nuts) you can do as this guy in the other Forum did.
He used 1 regular nut, 1 self locking Nylock type nut and a washer (he bought a new Tensioner Bolt).
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Stuck on V-Belts: ALternator bolts frozen and tension bolt broken-alternator-adjustment-bolt-2.jpg  
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  #11  
Old 12-24-2010, 01:30 AM
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Thanks for the help guys. I finally got the bolt off. With much celebrated fan fare.

The entire bolt is entirely unusable. I am going to have to have to replace this.

There was a post somewhere in the archives about a guy making a cheap one rather then a MB replacement.

Time to start searching.
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:28 AM
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I always removed the alt from the bracket but it doesn't work very well that way - it's hard to get the tensioner bolt out and I had to bend the bracket to get it free. Now it's back on, the tensioner doesn't work right because the bracket doesn't support it correctly and it only gets limited tension, and the adjuster bolt (taht's welded to the head of the bigger bracket bolt) is bending under the strain - I'll try to fix it when it gets warmer cos likely to break that expensive bolt, but it's working OK for now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
When I removed my Alternator I removed the 2 bolts that held it to the Block and took the Alternator out with the Bracket still on the Alternator.

I did that because not realize the 17mm Bolt needed to be loosened and it was the only way I fitured to remove it.

If the skinny threaded part of the Tensioner is busted off you can replace it at over $40 each or find another way to tension the Belts and hold the Alternator in place while you lock down the 17mm Nut.

If you decide to replace the Tensioner Bolt but are unable to use to origiona Tensioner Nut (I have not seen any part places selling the correct nuts) you can do as this guy in the other Forum did.
He used 1 regular nut, 1 self locking Nylock type nut and a washer (he bought a new Tensioner Bolt).
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  #13  
Old 12-24-2010, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
Thanks for the help guys. I finally got the bolt off. With much celebrated fan fare.

The entire bolt is entirely unusable. I am going to have to have to replace this.

There was a post somewhere in the archives about a guy making a cheap one rather then a MB replacement.

Time to start searching.
I can see a visit to a junk yard in your future!!
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  #14  
Old 12-24-2010, 11:29 PM
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There was a thread some while back, where the guy buggered up the tentioner bolt. so instead of buying a new $40 bolt, he cut off the small rod that fits into the bolt head. He used an "Eye" bolt with a machine thread on the other end. slip the long bolt through the "Eye" end, then the threaded end will fit in the adjustment end with a nut and washer.

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  #15  
Old 12-24-2010, 11:44 PM
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yup. I've done it this way, and I've also gotten pulls from my vast collection of junk...er prizes... it's a pretty good system for tension, but that thin bolt is easily damaged and rusted out.
I find it easiest to remove the rear bolts with a 1/2" ratchet, and 17mm shallow socket. none of the bolts on the front of the alternator should turn, all should be stable. if anything turns in the front, it's broken.

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