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#1
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What Variables Affect Rate at Which Refrigerant Escapes System?
Both of my 300's have slow refrigerant leaks; both are R134a. If memory serves, last summer I had to add refrigerant every two months or so to each to change the system from cool air to cold air. Last time I added refrigerant was in August. So I was a bit surprised, now in early March, to find that both systems are blowing ice cold. So, obviously, the rate of loss has decreased.
So could some of you help me understand what the variables are? I can think of various factors: where the leak is, ambient temp, extent to which AC is being used, hoses swelling/contracting come to mind. What variable(s) most likely account for the slowing of the rate of refrigerant loss? Thanks.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
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#2
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The size of the hole & the pressure behind it are the 2 factors.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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#3
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Since hole sizes don't shrink, that leaves pressure. So what affects the pressure and to what extent? I assume the only two variables here are ambient temp and whether or not the system is being used. And of course the quantity of refrigerant.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
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#4
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O ring conditions are critical.
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
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#5
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Some refrigerant top-up cans come with sealant, IIRC. May have sealed the crack. Really the way to tell is tracking system pressure over time. Ice cold AC in march doesn't say much unless you live in AZ.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
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#6
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Quote:
So the time you are running the system and the side the leak is on are major factors... Have you tried just ' snugging' up all the o ring joints you can reach ? ( use two wrenches and what are called ' line wrenches ' to do this safely...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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#7
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Quote:
It is natural for the A/C to leak a little over time, it is just a matter of how little. I read it somewhere that you lose about 1-2oz per year.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. ![]() W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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#8
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The need of the A/C. The more you need it the quicker it will leak out.
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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59 |
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#9
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many variables of operation influence the leak rates in a system, where it's leaking, how big the leak is, temp on the line, as parts expand, holes get larger/smaller. seals pliable in summer heat, will tighten up in winter. pressure lines leaking while system is running, will only have vapor at low pressure in winter, where in summer it will have liquid under high pressure. liquid contains 30,000 times more molecules in the same volume as a gas at the same pressure...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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#10
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I wasnt trying to be a smart @SS with my post.
When the air con parts are cold in the winter & not in use, pressure equalizes & is generally lower except in the cold side of the system. When you use the air con the compressor warms up & is at a higher pressure on the hp side. Things expand & this could cause the leak to get smaller or larger. You need to run the air con now & again in the winter to keep the compressor seal from deteriorating. A good detector is the best way to find leaks.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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#11
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for a good detector, ultrasonic is the best!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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#12
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I would have thought a haylon detector is what you would go for. How does the ultrasonic detector work John? I am probably 20 years out of date!! Where the heck is Larry Bible when you need him!!!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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#13
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Is ultrasonic the brand name or the way in which it works... like some cleaning systems ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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#14
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134 vs R12
IIRC, 134a is a smaller molecule than R12.
So, all things being equal, the 134a will leak out sooner. Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup 2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end |
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#15
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Quote:
Thus, if you get a little low... and need to top off... as you could do with 134a or R12... you instead need to take out everything and reinstall the blend... Some of you are thinking ' if you are getting low you have a leak and need to fix it' BUT our compressors are designed with a ' leak' on the front of the main shaft to bring lubricant to that front seal... thus your system can be ' perfect' and still need.... after several years... a little more refrigerant... not much or very fast. that would be a leak... but you can just need topping off every few years with a completely sealed system...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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