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#1
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Removing t-stat housing on OM616 w/ York compressor
Something in the vicinity of the thermostat housing is drooling coolant down the block of my '78 240D, and I figured the first step should be remove the housing and replace the gasket and short water pump hose, or at least get a better look at where the leak is coming from. Can it be done without removing the York compressor? I'm not really sure where to start, because there are bolts on both the housing and compressor that look impossible to reach with the other unit in way. Or can I just remove the entire compressor bracket, with the compressor still on it? That would allow me a better look at the water pump too, which I haven't entirely ruled out.
Also, I've read conflicting posts via search as to whether to use a sealant on the gasket between the t-stat housing and head ... should I use Permatex in addition to the new gasket, or just the gasket?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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What is the gasket made of ?
If some fiber or paper... I coat mine with the thinnest coat of RTV and let cure overnight... both sides.... then when putting together another wiped on thin coat....and install to proper torque... over torquing is the number one reason any gaskets fail...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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I did something like this on my '77 240D some time ago. IIRC I was able to loosen the compressor bracket enough to change the water pump, so I think you can get to everything that way. It wasn't the easiest thing and a few assorted curse words needed to be uttered.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#4
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It's a thin papery-type material. Any chance you know the torque figures? One of these days I should hunt down an FSM for this car, I suppose. The Haynes manual does not have a lot of the specs.
rs899, thanks, I'll see if loosening the bracket works. I will have plenty of curse phrases on hand in case I need them.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#5
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I ground away a portion of the compressor bracket on my 77 300d with a dremel tool in order to access one bolt to replace the water pump without loosening the bracket.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#6
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I'm surprised that you said it was a paper gasket. Have you checked what is already in the thermostat housing now? I used to own a '78, and a '79, and both had an o-ring which fit into a groove and no sealant was necessary. The o-ring came with the thermostat.
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'81 300SD |
#7
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Otto, if you are directing that to me..... I did not say it IS a paper or fiber gasket... I said that is how I would treat it if it was... if he is lucky it will be the much nicer thought out seal which you describe.
On water holding gaskets I avoid the aviation gasket type cements because they are so much trouble to clean up to reinstall.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#8
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Quote:
Once in a while, you do find a post on here with the correct information. Surprising as that might be. http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1978-Mercedes--Benz-240d-Cooling--System&yearid=1978%40%401978&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6138%3AED%7C10000129%3AMBC%7C1489%40%40240D&catid=240909%40%40Cooling+System&subcatid=240986@@Thermostat+Housing+Gskt%2E&mode=PD Last edited by tangofox007; 06-24-2011 at 08:27 AM. |
#9
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Quote:
Quote:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/Permatex_Water_Pump_Thermostat_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm |
#10
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[QUOTE=tangofox007;2740836]The thermostat gasket and the thermostat housing gasket are two different animals. The question regarded the latter.
LOL, this is what happens when I log in at 1:00 A.M. I've replaced the gasket that the OP is referring to, and I had success without using a sealant. I remember that the gasket was not paper.
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'81 300SD |
#11
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After worrying about my other car for a while, I made an attempt to get the housing off this evening and rs899 was certainly right about curse words being needed. All I achieved was discovering that getting the compressor bracket off is going to require removing the pulley on the water pump, because two bolts are behind it. I managed to get one bolt off the t-stat housing with the bracket in place, but couldn't get to the other one for the life of me. If I could remove the top bolt, maybe I could get a wrench down there, but (you guessed it) you can't remove the top bolt because the AC bracket is in the way.
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__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#12
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Quote:
Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#13
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Ressurrecting this with a new question. I finally got about to finishing this, which involved removing the fan pulley and A/C compressor, of course, buttoned it all back up and tested it w/ a pressure tester I rented. Coolant and air bubbled out the housing/block union.
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__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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