HOWDY! 1983 300D TurboDiesel new owner

[COYOTE102076]

Howdy folks!
New member to this site. I am a long time forum user other webforums,
mainly gun and game forum and planetisuzoo, but have recently purchased
a 1983 300D and after LOTS of searching for a good forum home for this
Mercedes project, I have pickedthis one.

I have for some strange reason wanted a late 70's to early 80's 300D turbodiesel for about 20 or so years. Well, I never could afford a really nice one (still can't) but a few days ago I bought one for $1100 that I think (hope) is restoreable. I am no stranger to restorations.
Last project was a 1965 Chevy C10 ( Yes the photobucket account says "Red64Stepside! lol long story on that one)
photos of last project if you care --->
http://s367.photobucket.com/albums/oo113/RED64STEPSIDE/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ12

Anywoooo,
The good: The body has, belieave it or not, NO dents at all. The paint is in about 80% condition, all the glass with the exeption of the passenger side mirror is in exelent shape. Tires are, well, they hold air. Good enough at this point in the project. Took front wheels off today to see what needed to be done up front & found out everything in the front looks like new! Brakes, shocks, ball joints / bushings, wheel bearings are tight, all seems to be in exelent shape! Engine has no blow by at all.

The bad:
The odometer quit working at 418,XXX miles, the interior is,,,,,,,,shot! Seats are faded & drivers seat is cracked a little, carpet needs to be replaced or re dyed at the least, dashboard has 2 large cracks in it, the wood trim around the gear shifer area is 75% destroyed, the PRND21 beside the gearsift lever is no longer legible, the plasticy trim around the door glass on the inside looks really bad.
The grey trim around both headlights is cracked some, and the passenger side turn signal lens is busted with a small chunk missing.
I am sure there is a couple of other cosmetic things I missed.

As to the REAL immediate problem: The thing runs BAD! It misses at all engine speeds, is really sluggish, and smokes like a freight train. Even when sitting there idling (Diesel smoke. Not oil burning smoke. The burn your eyes when it is running in the shop kind of smoke.)

At this point I have NOT read all of the past post's or done any kind of search. I WILL get that done over the next couple of days.
The ALDI screw is set at 3 rotations in from being backed all the way out.
I have not yet checked the timing, all I know is it is supposed to be at 28 deg BTDC. (No clue as to HOW to check the timing on a diesel, but did get a Haynes manual with the car.)

What I plan to do next: Drain fuel tank (Fuel is said to be 2 years old) clean fuel strainer in tank, install new fuel filters, do the "Diesel Purge" I saw a video of on YouTube, set the valves & timing by the book, AFTER all of that is done, install a boost gauge to see what PSI the turbo is puting out.
Is there anything I need to do that I have not mentioned?
As to under the hood, the glow plugs, A/C compressor, and fuel primer pump are all new. The ALDI screw WAS backed all the way out. I turned it back in 3 rotations in attempt to stop at least SOME of the huge ammount of smoke coming from the exhaust when idling. Zero results on that one.

The car drives & rides like a new one. Just runs really bad.
I work in a farm tractor dealership, and none of our mechanics will touch this engine. They look at it like a calf looking at a new gate! I thought a diesel was a diesel and they could fix it quick! Looks like I am going to have to do this all on my own. The store owner looked at the odometer said "You need a new Injection pump, injectors, and your turbo is shot" as soon as I started it up without telling him any details about the car. I am no mechanic by trade, but I have extensive experiance on older (carbureted) gas engines. I think this Diesel cant be all THAT much different. Allready have a diesel injection pump repair shop lined up IF it comes down to rebuilding the fuel pump & injectors.

Thanks for any future advice you can give!

Looks like I'll be sticking around here for a while, as I plan on it talking 2 to 3 years before I have this car completely restored.
Baby steps. Baby steps.

[bamba]

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your recent purchase. Thanks for the info you provided. I don't have all the answers (others here are more experienced than me), but I do have a few questions and suggestions.

Why is the fuel 2 years old? Is there more to the story? It sounds like the vehicle has sat for a long time. If that's the case, I would definitely change the oil. Additionally, if it was stored and not started for a long time (8-12+ months), I would also consider using something like Marvel Mystery Oil to loosen up the rings and provide some initial lubrication. You can add some to each cylinder via the glow-plug holes or injector ports (with injectors removed). Some people discount the value in this, but I've had good experience with it. Doesn't hurt to be extra-safe.

The steps you outlined sound pretty good. Before you dig into the timing, I would first try cleaning out the lines between the ALDA and switchover valve, and the associated banjo bolt. Clogged (sooty) lines will cause improper ALDA pressure readings and fuel delivery, with the resultant symptom being 'sluggish' performance / a lack of power. It's a common occurrence, and cleaning the lines can be done in 15 minutes with a can of brake or carb cleaner. Dieselgiant has a great step-by-step procedure.

With over 400k miles, you're right -- there's a good chance that new injectors and timing chain stretch should be investigated. But I would start with the easiest (and cheapest) procedures, and then take it from there.

[sixto]

You said nothing about changing the oil In fact fluids and filters all around - transmission, brakes, power steering (there's a filter at the bottom of the reservoir), differential, coolant.

Sixto
87 300D

[sixto]

Read up on cleaning the ALDA signal line ('banjo bolt' is a good keyword) and checking timing chain stretch.

Sixto
87 300D

[babyjames]

1. Valve adjustment
2. Check air filter element
3. Diesel Purge

If the smoke goes away when you've got it running on Diesel Purge, then you know you've got bad fuel. Diesel isn't like gasoline, though. It doesn't turn to varnish, it just grows algae. The point I'm trying to make is that you may not have to throw the fuel in the tank away. Wouldn't hurt to clean the tank strainer at some point, but I'd make sure you can get the engine running well before going too much further. Welcome, and best of luck!

Jay

[layback40]

Welcome to the forum!!
You will find us a friendly group, always keen to help.
Sounds like you have the beginning of a good car there.
There are a few members that share your interest in fire arms, some time drop by the open discussion forum & introduce yourself. You will be made welcome there as well!!

Good Luck with your car !!

[toomany MBZ]

Welcome aboard.

A few good suggestions have been made.

What color smoke?

Let us know of your progress.

25+ year old diesels are a completely different animal from the modern stuff. This car is all mechanical, no chips. The injectors (surely in need of new nozzles) are operated by the IP only.

[leathermang]

Originally Posted by layback40

Welcome to the forum!!
You will find us a friendly group, always keen to help.
Sounds like you have the beginning of a good car there.
There are a few members that share your interest in fire arms, some time drop by the open discussion forum & introduce yourself. You will be made welcome there as well!!

Good Luck with your car !!

I am not friendly.
And do not go to the open forum... that is where people get in trouble and angry at others and get infractions added to their info each time they post.... then sometimes leave forever....
Stay right here on the diesel forum to be safe and get good info.

[vstech]

Welcome!
Glad you found the best MB Diesel site on the planet (perhaps off it also?) anyway, the odo is a pretty easy part to fix lots of repair info on that here.
at 400+K SHOWING on the odo, odds are good the timing chain is beyond stretch limits, and that's throwing off the injection and valve timing. start there.
the CORRECT method of checking the stretch is called a 2mm lift method. another method is MUCH less effective, but very simple to do. just align PERFECTLY the mark on the cam washer with the cam tower mark and read where the pointer points. if it's around 10, you've got need for a new chain. if it's around 1 you need to do the 2mm lift method and see correctly where you are.
I agree, the fuel being 2 years old is a non issue.
I'd next pull the injectors and ship them to CseanWatts and have him install new monark nozzels and balance them for you. then order a set of 5 heat shields for them when they return.
oh, and yeah, change the oil!

[psaboic]

Agree with your outlined steps. I would do the following in order. Drain tank and clean screen. New primary and secondary fuel filters. Oil and filter change, Transmission and filter change, air filter change. Check rest of fluids. Run the diesel purge, do a valve adjustment, clean banjo bolts (mentioned above. Set idle at about 750 RPM.

Once you get it running better you can look into cleaning the injectors. In the meantime you can also change the coolant, and replace the brake fluid.

As you can see, with any old car (no matter what the PO tells me) I like to change all fluids and filters to "re-base" everything.

Congrats on the car and have fun!

[kerry]

A non-spinning turbo could cause those smoking symptoms so your colleague could be right. I would check that first, along with the air filter and before putting money into the car, do a compression check.

[junqueyardjim]

Hey Welcome, do anything to keep it going. I think the valve adjust and then a compression test is wonderful to tell you how your engine is doing. Chain stretch is critical also. They are wonderful little engines when they are running right. You never know how many miles are on these old diesels as the speedometers are not nearly as good as the engine.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by sixto

You said nothing about changing the oil In fact fluids and filters all around - transmission, brakes, power steering (there's a filter at the bottom of the reservoir), differential, coolant.

Sixto
87 300D

X2 start with fluids

Then take a look at the DIY section.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

(Oh and welcome to the forum)

[Yak]

Phil (buy parts links) is your friend.

Make your car stop and steer, then make it go.

Plenty of parts available in the parts thread.

[kerry]

Originally Posted by Yak

Phil (buy parts links) is your friend.

Make your car stop and steer, then make it go.

Plenty of parts available in the parts thread.

You'd spend money making the car stop and steer before making sure it will go when it has 418k miles on it?