When I did the engine change on my coupe, I re-sealed the oil pan and main seals. You need to get the special anerobic sealant and primer for the pan to block seal (available at NAPA= EXPENSIVE!). I also replaced the entire rear rope seal without removing the crank: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=298852&highlight=rope+seal Of course you will need to remove the transmission to replace the complete rear seal. You should use a good degreaser to clean the engine bay before installing the engine. This is the best that I have found available at Sam's Club:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...y/100_0400.jpg
Before cleaning:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...y/100_0396.jpg
After cleaning:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...y/100_0397.jpg
If you have access to a car hauler, I suggest taking the car to your local self serve car wash to pressure wash the engine bay. I took the entire donor engine to the car wash and cleaned it good enough to do a thorough paint job on the engine.

Wow ROLLGUY those before and after pictures look good - was there a lot of time between the before and after? (Did it take you long?)

Warning about the pressure washing though - Boston like the Netherlands is wet - not the best thing to do here. Cars tend to rust faster than they dry out here!

This has been a real pain in the arse for me too.

I've tried vinegar and other house hold cleaners and they are a waste of time. I've tried commercial products like this one

http://www.frost.co.uk/car-care-tools/frost-ali-clean-1-litre.html

Waste of time.

The best thing I've found so far is to degrease with whatever degreaser you can get your hands on (I've been using these products http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/engine-parts-cleaners/engine-degreasers/) and then use a semi expensive wheel cleaner.

The problem that you'll have (just like me) is that the staining is heavily ingrained into the surface - it ends up being a balance between as clean as you can get it and not so clean that the surface starts to corrode (go all powdery).

Two words........................"Elbow Grease"


Sorry....there is no easy way to do it. They all take a lot of work to get there....and frequent work to maintain.

I disagree. Go ahead and replace it. Replace all gaskets (especially the knuckle busting pita ones).

That gasket is cheap....and out of the car would be easy to replace...and a lot quicker to replace too. If it makes you feel better go for it.

This is all about making yourself feel better!

Cleaning and polishing included.

Have fun dd!

As for de-greasing, I found the generic oven cleaner from the Dollar Store works great. However, make sure you're down wind cuz a snout full will take your breath away. Also, I would not let is sit for a really long time since it may eat away at something. However, letting it sit for 10 minutes or so will really clean down to the metal. You can use the name brand stuff, but you can buy 6 cans for $1.00 each or a name brand can for the same price, but I think it is the same stuff. DO NOT take the kitchen supply -- wife can get pretty cranky. LOL. Hope this helps

Yeah well - errrr - make sure you wash it off aluminium really well - I found it to be quite aggressive!

Seconded, oven cleaner, or caustic soda is the bee's knees for degreasing aluminum. All that other stuff is for after the oven cleaner. Just like greazzer says, don't breathe the vapors, don't leave it on more than ten minutes. Nooks and crevaces may need multiple applications, ie apply, wait, rinse, apply, wait, rinse. After you rinse you'll get oxidation almost immediately, so if you're going for a polished finish, be ready to work on the polishing immediately and apply some protective coating.

Another product Zep-Alum, is also good but contains Hydrofluoric acid, which is frightening. Don't use HF until you've read the relevant precautions. Zep-Alum is probably too dilute (I hope) to hurt you but concentrated HF can cause you to meet with an untimely end.

Got it on the aluminum cleaners, thanks!

How to best restore the finish on the cast aluminum parts (i.e. oil filter canister or valve cover) but not polish them to mirror finish like on a motorcycle?

before photo was taken right before loading the car, and after was taken a couple hours later after unloading the car.

For the stuff I can get here - you lot don't know how lucky you all are! - the wheel cleaner stuff kind of helps a bit...

...but my top tip is to use hand cleaner. Rub it into a dry bit of the casting - add a small amount of water a little later on (like you are meant to with your hands) - wash off...

Mounting the engine to a Stand
 

Guys,

I am now considering the convenience of mounting the engine to an engine stand since I am at least going to do:

- R&R glowplugs
- R&R injectors
- R&R turbo, manifolds, turbo drain
- valve stem seals
- vacuum pump replacement
- R&R alternator
- possibly R&R AC compressor
- Replace lower oil pan gasket

It seems the comfort and convenience of the stand is worth the time invested to get it on there.

I have not done this before. I have the harbor freight stand.

I see some youtube videos on the subject. Can I use the bolts from the engine? Do I need to remove the flywheel? etc.

Thanks - I dont want to mess this step up.

OUCH....grease the rotating part BEFORE you hang the engine on it....and it WILL still be a real bear to rotate on that stand....I hope you have a four point stand and not the T (three point) stand that would be tippy to say the least.

That's a heavy engine. I have a spare on a four point Harbor freight stand.

It attaches to the engine plate....you can leave the flywheel/flexplate on the engine.

I would get some long grade 8 bolts.....thats a lot of weight hanging from just four bolts....I want the strongest bolts I can get to do it.