You were only able to move the trans away from the engine 1/2" because of the retainer bolt on the side of the trans holding the torque converter in. If you removed said bolt, you would have been able to pull the trans away. However, you would have had an oil spill. You probably know, but do not bolt the TC to the flex plate and then try to install the trans! Do yourself a favor, and replace the input shaft seal in the trans before re-installing (I am sure you know that too).

dont make these assumptions :-) didnt know either of these things. on the list :-)

OK - I'll pull it before I re-mate engine and trans. It doesnt look warped, but its well worth my time to remove and check.

I put them beck into the TC loosely. Is it OK to not put them back in the exact holes they came out of (I didnt keep track of exactly which bolt came from what hole of the 6)? I didnt think of this until now...

Is there any need for loctite on any of these bolts? I also haven't been able to find torque specs for eventual reassembly in the FSM.


dd

There is no matching between bolt and hole so don't worry about that. I was trying to point out that they are of a stronger than normal type (8.8)

I think I have seen the information in the FSM somewhere - but I can't find it now. However Haynes says:-

Torque converter bolt 42 Nm => 31 Ft-lbs

And

Transmission to engine bolts

10mm ... 55 Nm => 41 Ft-lbs
12mm ... 65 Nm => 48 Ft-lbs

Torque converter drain plug 14 Nm => 10 Ft-lbs


For these values the conversion between Nm and Ft-lbs seems believable - but watch out in that book some of the conversions are just wrong. Ft-lbs are roughly two thirds of the Nm value.


Haynes does not mention Loctite.

DD44,

I have a large granite surface block if you want to check it. You will need to bring it here though because I don't feel like dragging it upstairs etc.. Probably 300lbs.

Hi guys

Here is a other idea on the engine stand and aluminum cleaning.
This parts are just bead blasted. If you get them tumbled, they get even better.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o...0/Photo584.jpg
aDFa

Ooooooooooooooooo Does that ever look nice.:D

Looks great - how does it stand up to the test of time?

Do you get a lot of powder forming on the surface?

It holds up very well, no problems with powder, corrosion or discoloration.
Aftrer you finich cleaning the parts coat them with a dry silicon spray.
Do not use high PH cleaners on the aluminum parts after you finish them , it will discolor the aluminum.

Oh right - great tip - thanks for that.

Do you think sand blasting would also be an alternative?

And what do you think about those clear coat sprays often used by car dealers who sell "one lady owner from new" vehicles? I mean this sort of thing =>

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-clear-gloss-bare-metal-aero-11-oz.html

I'm a bit worried that I'd end up with flaky aluminium... well the aluminium wouldn't be flaking but the coating might.

You should blast the aluminum parts with something sharper then glass beat first. Aluminum oxide works well, and you can use a higher pressure setting on the sand blaster.
It also takes care of baked on dirt or corrosion on parts like oil pans or intermediate plates, that glass beat alone would never remove.
The aluminum has a rough grayish surface after the aluminum oxide treatment.
Then use the glass beat, and just brush the surface.
The drawback is that parts like oil filter housings and vacuum pumps must be completely disassemble before blasting, and cleaned up very well afterwards.

I would not use any coatings. They all become yellowish and flake, and there are a pain in the you know what to remove, even with a sand blaster.
The detailers around here put that stuff on your engine for some extra cash.
Money well wasted.

Next Round of Progress...
 

Engine up on stand, manifolds and alternator off (see pics).

I need to install a block heater - note that on this car there is none. Is it possible/realistic to remove the block heater from the 'dead' engine? Or should I buy a new factory heater?

Two of the manifold studs came out. How do I re-set them effectively?

I didn't test my vacuum pump when the car was running. Is there an effective bench test? I think it was working fine, but 'now is the time'.

Other than that, things are going well. My lift load balancer just got here, so its time to pull the other engine. :D

I called around - nobody knows of anyone to 'hot tank' my intake manifold. I'm going to clean around the intake ports, but not go crazy.

Slow and steady the project marches on...

It is possible to change the block heater if you get it out of the block.
Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's hart.
A bigger problem could be the plug in your new engine.
If it gives you a hart time, just hit it with a hammer.
The goal is to compress the aluminum seal ring behind the plug, and loosen up the threads. Be aware, the hammer treatment may destroy the plug.

A quick vacuum pump test.
Stand a large socket upright and put the ball bearing of the vacuum pump into the (probably) 1/2" square of the socket.
Put a finger over the outlet of the pump and push down on it 2 or 3 times.
You should feel the pump sucking on your finger.

You could always do the redneck TDI intake manifold cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oet4qWeZuYA