My W123 617.952 Engine Swap Thread

[Stretch]

I know I'm a non-turbo but I guess the clearance is about the same.

I also took out the engine by myself which would have been pretty difficult without the load balancer



I wrote one of my War and Peace length threads on taking it out - it might be of use to you - but then again you've just done the job - so probably not!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=289886

[winmutt]

The swap is very daunting.

The best thing to do is get the rear end as high up in the air as possible. Even then you really need a leveller. Honestly Its only about 16 or so bolts to get the trans off the engine.

[jt20]

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

- im a bit overwhelmed looking at it and knowing i still need to pull the motor from the dead car, work on this one, and then put it back in. its a project :-)

Yeah, its so much work. The best thing I ever had for organizing bolts was a wine-shipping container made of molded styrene / Styrofoam. It was perfect, you could label it, toss long bolts in it, even most brackets.

Another tip, separate / organize bolts by task, not by individual parts. It will facilitate installation by reminding you of how you took things apart and other smaller tasks that were involved for a particular item.

[dieseldan44]

Soooo Im looking at this thing and making my list of things to do.

Question:

Is there any reason to separate engine from transmission at this point?


...

The to-do list Ive come to based upon cost/time factors:

- new injectors / seals
- new fuel primer pump
- valve stem seals (due to light blue smoke), new valve cover gasket
- new oil cooler lines
- new AC lines / AC compressor (off other engine)
- new alternator (off of other engine)
- new air cleaner bracket (off other engine)
- new air cleaner assembly
- replace turbo with an '85 one I have with no end-play
- replace transmission cooler hard lines with ones off other engine
- new soft transmission cooler lines
- replace turbo cooler line gasket that always eventually leaks
- replace oil canister to engine block gasket (it doesnt leak now...)

- polish valve cover
- paint manifolds???
- fully clean engine and make pretty????

Any thoughts or opinions appreciated..

[paul46]

Don't know how you did that without a load lever. I got mine at harbor freight for less than $40. If you do decide to remove the transmission from the engine ( Don't know why you would ) then don't forget to remove the useless plastic plug on the side and front. Its alot easier without the plug. I know I just learned the hard way. I'm doing a swap myself from a 84 300sd to an 85 300d so I had to remove and keep the original transmission.

woops just found out the plastic plug is there to hold the torque convert in the bell housing and you normally remove the torque converter with the transmission, which I could not do since my engine was siezed with rod through the block... This is all new stuff to me trail and error...

[tbomachines]

You need a load leveler to do this job safely (or without cutting out the radiator support)

http://www.google.com/search?q=load+leveler&tbm=shop&hl=en&aq=f#sclient=psy&hl=en&tbm=shop&source=hp&q=load+leveler+engine&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=6bdeec84b6879c88&biw=1920&bih=940

I used a harbor frieght cheapo one and it worked just fine after a re-lube on the threads.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by tbomachines

You need a load leveler to do this job safely (or without cutting out the radiator support)

http://www.google.com/search?q=load+leveler&tbm=shop&hl=en&aq=f#sclient=psy&hl=en&tbm=shop&source=hp&q=load+leveler+engine&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=6bdeec84b6879c88&biw=1920&bih=940

I used a harbor frieght cheapo one and it worked just fine after a re-lube on the threads.

X2 on those threads (although I didn't buy mine from HF - it probably came from the same place!)

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

Soooo Im looking at this thing and making my list of things to do.

Question:

Is there any reason to separate engine from transmission at this point?


...

...

- polish valve cover
- paint manifolds???
- fully clean engine and make pretty????

Any thoughts or opinions appreciated..

Cleanliness is next to Godliness - so yes clean it - but a mirror finish on a valve cover is a bit naff in my opinion

As for "at this point" - which point is that?

I think it is best to remove and install the transmission and engine at the same time - together - the chances of damaging the transmission are smaller (in my opinion again).

[boneheaddoctor]

Originally Posted by Army

X2 on those threads (although I didn't buy mine from HF - it probably came from the same place!)

The Harbor Freight load leveler is real piece of crap....but it does function. I have one. If I planned on using it more than twice I'd advise on getting a better one. It really doesn't like having the weight of one of these engines on it if you are trying to turn the crank to position the engine.

These things are heavy...aren't they.

I'd do it as a unit as well, unless I had a transmission jack or an equally skilled friend that doesn't mind getting dirty to help you.

[dieseldan44]

Originally Posted by Army

Cleanliness is next to Godliness - so yes clean it - but a mirror finish on a valve cover is a bit naff in my opinion

As for "at this point" - which point is that?

I think it is best to remove and install the transmission and engine at the same time - together - the chances of damaging the transmission are smaller (in my opinion again).

The point im at being the engine is out of the car. I can either work on it 'as is' or put the engine on a stand (separating it from the trans).

[dieseldan44]

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

The Harbor Freight load leveler is real piece of crap....but it does function. I have one. If I planned on using it more than twice I'd advise on getting a better one. It really doesn't like having the weight of one of these engines on it if you are trying to turn the crank to position the engine.

These things are heavy...aren't they.

I'd do it as a unit as well, unless I had a transmission jack or an equally skilled friend that doesn't mind getting dirty to help you.

Noted - Ill get a leveler. It was precarious getting the engine out to say the least.

[junqueyardjim]

I wouldn't mess with the oil filter canister mount gasket if you are positive it is not leaking. How can you improve on that?

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

The point im at being the engine is out of the car. I can either work on it 'as is' or put the engine on a stand (separating it from the trans).

Oh right.

Well I'd do as much as you can to the engine and the transmission - well, as much as you are planning (don't get carried away now!) - when it is out. It is much easier to work on it now - particularly if you are cleaning or if you have to drill out fasteners...

I wouldn't put on any(*) lines until you come to fit the engine to the car => One exception - the oil cooler lines.

My point being lines and crap hanging off the engine causes scratches / damage / frustration when fitting it. Only the oil cooler lines appear to cause a greater frustration for most people when fitting them to the engine in the car - though I still think removing the second mounting brackets makes it a lot easier...

But I must say the biggest crime you are making so far is not enough









Pictures!

[dieseldan44]

Originally Posted by junqueyardjim

I wouldn't mess with the oil filter canister mount gasket if you are positive it is not leaking. How can you improve on that?

My other two 617s leak from that spot. I just am thinking replace it now before it breaks while its relatively easy.

but you're right - if it begins leaking then fix it.

[dieseldan44]

Originally Posted by Army

Pictures!

Fair enough - I need to take more.


How do I make the aluminum look good again? The oil canister and valve cover etc. How do I detail this beast?