Did a quick search of our sponsor and didn't see anything listed. I'd like to make sure before I spend the money elsewhere or to see what everyone else is using.

I don't need anything fancy, but do need the proper connections/fittings. The local parts stores only carrier testers for newer vehicles that have dedicated in place connectors.

I want to check the fuel pressure of my OM616 in the event I need to replace the fuel inlet/outlet valves and/or adjust the pressure relief spring.

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

Have you looked up the cost of the Lift Pump Valve Kit. It does not cost much.

If you look at the DIYs of people testing their Fuel Supply/Lift Pumps you find that one of the main problems is that there is a lot of pulsation.
In the DIYs you will find people have bought the Harbor Freight Liquid Fillled Gauge to do the testing.
When I tried mine with a Liquid Filled Gauge the needle still bounced around a lot. (I believe it needs a restricted fitting with a small hole do dampen the pulses.)

One of our members used a setup that used that skinny plastic tubing that people use to install an Oil Pressure Gauge and he claimed his gauge needle did not bounce. And, it was long as he ran it into the interior so he could watch it while driving.

Also if you do not have a new Filter installed it can throw off your reading.

If you have a Filter Housing like the Below one you can remove the Banjo Bolt on the one where the Arrow on the Housing points away from the Housing (#2 in the pic). You Drill and Tap that for the fitting you want to hook the gauge to.


Part of your particular issue is that you may not have A spin on Secondary Fuel Filter like the later models do; and that is what is in the DIYs.

(Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve Thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=23460)

In the thumbnail is a later model pump but you could also remove the Banjo Bolt (red arrow) that screws into the Pump Housing and drill and tap that for your fitting.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Sounds complicated.

How about I replace both inlet and outlet valves and the lift pump internals? Seems like I can find them cheaper than a decent tester.

After 37 years, they probably need it anyway.

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

There is also a little O-ring that needs to be replaced. I hope the Info is in here; Please note the Lift Pump Valve kit for your year and model may not be the same as the one for my 84; Fastlane hse them and Hunter had a post that had the part numbers for the kits they sellthreads from my notes.)
Lift Pump, Fuel Supply Pump rebuild kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2284880#post2284880
Lift Pump, Fuel Supply Pump about sanding the Valves has the small O-ring size
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=266857&highlight=lift+pump+kit

Bosch Fuel Supply lift pump kits
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=215770

Idle Shake gone after Fuel Supply/Lift Pump cleaned
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2549341#post2549341

Fuel Supply Lift Pump Rebuild.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=266857&highlight=lift+pump+kit

Rust and sludge in Fuel Supply Lines
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=291640

I copied the below from someones post.
Lift/FUEL SUPPLY PUMP TINY o-ring
Bosch lists now 2 440 210 002 (MB 010 997 86 48) as replacement to the original black(perbunan?). And yes,the replacement is Viton.
The 5mmŲ x 1.50mmŲ 'O' ring is located in a groove in this bore and prevents engine oil in the IP from being sucked into the fuel re-circulation circuit. In most cases this O-ring has either hardened and broken up or completely disappeared.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks once again for coming to the rescue.

When I sucked out the old IP oil, it looked really thin. I almost got the impression that there was diesel in the mix but couldn't be positive.

After reading some of your links it appears possible that some fuel could have gotten by the worn o-ring and into the IP.

Thanks again!

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

I've used, and like one with a remote sending unit that I bought from
Pegasus Auto Racing. I use it mostly on fuel rail diagnosis.
No 45 psi fuel in the cabin. It has internal damping to take
care of the "bounce" problem.

I'll try to remember to take a picture as I can't identify it on their website.

On 300D's I find it easier to just replace the small fuel filter with a cheapo
5psi electric pump, a carter I think, which I've added to a pair of jumper cables.

By tie-wrapping the pump temporarily to the cruise controller bulkhead I can
drive the car and isolate the fuel delivery problems, without tackling the lift
pump. An electric pump will "push" fuel right through the mechanical
lift pump even when its internally leaking.

Some interactions between small leaks on the lift pump,
old springs in the relief valve, and tired injectors can drive one a little crazy,
and be very tough to isolate without putting the car under load.

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--frankb

1982 300TD 617.912 <NLA> . 1975 2002 E10-EFI . 1976 914c6 . 1983 MG LMIII <NLA>. 1988 Montero / 616<NLA> . 2001 TLS . 2005 Saab 9-5 Wagon

Fuel going past the worn O-ring and getting into the Fuel Injection Punop (the Oil level will get higher and drip out of that tube that is on one side of the Fuel Injection Pump) is a more common symptom than the Oil getting sucked out of the Fuel Injection Pump.

However, another reason Fuel gets into the Oil is when the Elements (Plungers and Barrels) are worn. There is no seal on them as their precision fit is the only thing that prevents obvious leaks (it is normal for some Fuel to leak by because that is what lubes the Elements).
Wear does not seem likely in your case at a 178k unless something went through the Fuel Injection Pump that scored up the Elements.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel