This is very bad info. If your guide rod mounts are bad please dont try replacing them without properly pulling the spring out. The "ratchet strap method" is a accident waiting to happen, i have put the method to the test once before.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Well, when it comes to aftermarket parts, I've read bad stuff about everything... Febi, Myele, Uro. It's distressing because dealer parts are so darn expen$ive and it sounds like they are prone to the same issues. I'm glad that I have access to good beer to cope.

My clunking continues even though I replaced the LCA bushing, guide rod mounts and the mount in the LCA itself. Granted, I'm only getting it 5% of the time, instead of 100% of the time I hit the brakes. Small consolation if it starts shredding my front tires. I'm going to double-check torque settings this weekend just to be sure.

I used vstech's Klann spring compressor and I'm convinced it made this job manageable. I just don't see how one would use the "ratchet strap" method without putting severe stress on the LCA bushing. With the proper spring compressor this is as safe a repair as the shade tree mechanic can conceive of tackling.

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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante"
2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit"
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1984 300D
1966 Mustang I6 3sp
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE
1982 Toyota Supra
1977 Datsun 280z
1971 Datsun 240z

It is not the Safety issue with the above method that bothers me.

If you have old Lower Control Arm Bushings pulling the LCA forward enough to remove the Guid Rond Mount might well end the life of an old Bushing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel