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#1
10-11-2011, 03:15 AM
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Was ist loss 300SDL picture
Two issues, can you point them out ???
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#3
10-11-2011, 03:41 AM
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Is the crud rust? (My eyes are old and bent...)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#4
10-11-2011, 08:13 AM
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I hope that's not my car
 -J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket  Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E.
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#5
10-11-2011, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
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#6
10-11-2011, 08:26 AM
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is that prefilter in backwards?
Im not familiar with the SDLs, but it seems to be facing the wrong way Could definitely use a filter replacement and a better even pressure oem style hose clamp Wheres the main fuel filter on these cars?
__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.
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#7
10-11-2011, 09:55 AM
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Looks like bacteria. Not sure if the the SDL a fuel sender unit is like the 300D. If it is you can use as a good indicator to what you are dealing with. Pull the sender unit. If the outside is stained brown, its bacteria. If the sender unit is a long tube like the 300D, open it up (be gentle), and wash it our with brake/carb cleaner. If a lot of crud comes out of it, its bacteria.
Fixes: The quickest long term solution but more work: Empty the tank. Pull it and clean it. (You can skip all the next steps if you have the tank boiled out at a radiator shop.) Water wash and degreaser is fine, just make sure you rinse the tank thoroughly with water and dry it using a hair dryer or clothes dryer heat for a few hours. Plug any holes at top (insert fuel sending unit) and fuel cap. TURN TANK UPSIDE DOWN and fill it with diesel (1/2 a tank) and a full bottle (quart) of biocide and let sit overnight. The bacteria really grows at the top of the tank. Drain out fuel (save it), and re-wash and re-dry. Re-install tank. Now if you can filter out that used fuel, I highly recommend that because two things. Not cool to just dump diesel and you just put a $25 quart of biocide in there. If you can't filter, add another full quart bottle of biocide, and fill the tank as full as possible. Try to top off the tank for the next two weeks. Keep changing the first fuel filter every two days for about a week. Slower Long term method: Add an entire bottle of biocide to the tank and top off tank for at least two weeks. Keep changing that first filter as necessary - it could be as ofter as once a day for a week or so. When the car runs sluggish, its time to swap it out. The fuel will be dark but over the next 2-4 weeks, but should slowly get more clear. If the problem does not get better (viewed through the filter) then you are going to need to clean out the fuel tank. Good Luck Doug PS. Swap out the that fuel line as well. I recommend SAE30R9 if you can find it. Its Viton lined, and now a lot of the time Dino diesel is mixed with 5% bio. It shouldn't effect hoses, but we are running 25+ year old cars with who knows how long certain hoses are in place. SAE30R7 is fine too. Just keep an eye on those hoses. Last edited by Doug183; 10-11-2011 at 10:16 AM.
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#8
10-11-2011, 10:31 AM
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I would say that the fuel thermostat valve o-ring is leaking and the fuel filter needs changing. Looks like the engine shock rubber mount is bad as well.
__________________
 Western NC1987 300SDL W126 Turbo Diesel 335,000 + miles 1976 300D W115 275,000 miles+
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#9
10-11-2011, 10:36 AM
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Hose to lift pump swollen/leaking.
Inline filter is filled with stuff -> result from WVO in tank.
__________________
1987 300SDL 314K mi, counting; #22 Head  1999 E300Turbo 405K original miles 1997 E320 180K mi (Son's) 2002 ML320 (Son's) 1998 S320 140K mi (Son's) sold 1985 300SD 311K mi 1984 300D 324K mi (killed by a hit-n-run turd) *************************************
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#10
10-11-2011, 08:29 PM
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Contaminated Fuel / Filter / & Leaks - Motor Mount
Fouled fuel filters etc with leaky hoses both pre and post pump.....and a shot Motor Mount possibly due to fuel contamination....Motor shock probably suffering the same rubber death from fuel
__________________
 1986 300SDL 440,xxx
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#11
10-11-2011, 11:50 PM
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Ding, ding, ding
Quote:
It cranks great, but will not start, and sprays diesel on the floor. * The fuel thermostat O-ring is leaking. * The fuel filter is plugged = needs changing. The engine shock rubber mount is swelled a bit from leaks, but still functional. The hoses should be replaced, but are not a critical issue. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/special-order-mercedes-parts/289787-diesel-fuel-thermostat-repair-kit-huge-application-list.html#post2603588 COVER MB# 6010780016 SPECIAL ORDER HBL COVER, DIESEL FUEL THERMOSTAT,6010780016 - PeachParts SEAL RING MB# 0119973948 SPECIAL ORDER HBL O RING SEAL,0119973948 - PeachParts Fuel hose, sold by the meter MB# 1149971882 Fuel hose, sold by the meter MB# 6030780381
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#12
10-12-2011, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
John
__________________
Western NC1987 300SDL W126 Turbo Diesel 335,000 + miles 1976 300D W115 275,000 miles+
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#13
10-12-2011, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
That would be an awesome peachparts initiative, you start solve this problem type questions on the forums, and whoever gets the correct answer gets a parts discount. You could run it like airline miles, enough correct answers and you get a free part. Might be fun
__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.
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#14
10-13-2011, 10:50 AM
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That's my car!
Hi folks,
This is my car, and I gotta fix it. THANKS to Roy for diagnosing my problem really quickly, THANKS to Phil for getting parts to me, and thanks to everyone else for your comments. I'm new to all this and I hope to learn a lot so that I can take-care of my cars. Would someone please outline the general procedure I should follow when making these repairs? Also, I'm in the process of acquiring tools, so I'd appreciate your mentioning any tools I'll need and if you have specific tool recommendations I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks again. -Martin.
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#15
10-13-2011, 11:31 AM
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Answer
Quote:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/181826-fuel-leak-please-help.html .    http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/235064-om601-diesel-fuel-heater.html .
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/
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