My advice would be to get the drain plug out as best you can - air tools / fire / mole grips / whatever. Use force and aggression on the bolt - but preserve the oil pan.

It sounds like you are going to be "stuck" with a knackered drain plug what ever happens.

Once you've removed the plug (OK easier said than done perhaps?) remove the oil pan.

Inside the oil pan you'll see that the threaded hole in the pan is just a flat bit of steel with a thread in it. This is tack welded onto the oil pan.

Grind off this flat bit of steel and weld (or get someone to tack weld) a nut or another strip of steel with the correct threaded hole for a new drain pan bolt.

Buy a new gasket for the oil pan.

Buy a new drain pan bolt.

EDIT:-

Alternatively buy a new lower oil pan!

I suggest getting a good used pan and having it ready to install with a new gasket. Then I'd get on it with a six point socket and apply heat as Layback suggested and really lay into it with a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension. As for draining it if you cannot get it out I would be tempted to drill the plug. I don't think you or a shop can get it all done in an hour though.

Good luck!

I may have a used pan for that. It is a 617 turbodiesel?

Why does everyone want him to replace the damn pan? This crap is encountered every day in shops and it is simply from people getting carried away since it is much easier to over-torque something when you use that yellow crap which acts as a lube during install. just smack the damn wrench and it will come out.

Agreed.

Although, simply smacking it may not allow it to release and could further strip the hex.

To guarantee release:

Drain the oil from the top using a topsider. Borrow one if you must.

Heat the drain plug with a propane torch for about three minutes. Try to avoid heating the pan.

Remove the plug. It won't require much effort as the plug has lengthened slightly and unloaded the crush washer.

My thought is that the yellow stuff is there because the threads have been stripped. Heli coils are fine but with the engine oil I like to be very safe.

If he can get the plug out and finds the threads are not buggered great!

The yellow stuff is not adhesive, glue, or thread repair. It is a VERY common lube shop sealant, almost every lube shop in the world uses it to guarantee they dont leak/the get tightened. I dont know if heat will release it but have never had to go that far... it's just tight.

Does it have a name?

Well, on a benz you don't need sealant. If the plug is good and the copper washer is not buggered you just tighten it up and you are good.

If it ain't leaking, and you need to do the oil change, the aforementioned topsider would work fine. You can buy one for less than a new pan, or build one I guess.

But if the drain plug is no kidding stuck in there and/or stripped; or if the gasket is leaking then having a new pan/gasket/plug ready to go would be prudent.

If you're going to really honk on the bolt to remove it, I'd plan for the worst and order a new pan, gasket, and bolt. Maybe $65. Or used in good shape would be fine, too.

PeachParts FastLane Mercedes Parts Store
PeachParts FastLane Mercedes Parts Store
PeachParts FastLane Mercedes Parts Store
PeachParts FastLane Mercedes Parts Store

In Chicago, with a suspect history also, concern about the hex heads for pan removal is prudent. Clean them out thoroughly, clean ABOVE the two or three that go through the upper pan. Make sure you've got a quality metric Allen set and the correct torque wrench for re-installation. Maybe even buy a few spare bolts in case of stripping.

I dont know what the name is... never used it :) . I do know it is so they can tell if you messed with it to limit warranty claims from failed oil changes causing failed engines.

Sorry i did not mean to refer to it as a sealant. :rolleyes: Its more of a... "we put this stuff on see ^ we couldnt have left your drain plug lose", but i do believe it also acts as a sealant as well.

OK, NOW it makes sense to me.;)

There are some post on how to make a topsider oil drainer. It may be more cost effective than messing/replacing with the pan.

I use a Pella topside pump, and it works like a charm. No mess, no crawling around under the car. No worries about the drain plug, and no removing the belly pans.


Oil Change Pump 6.0 Liter Capacity from Wholesale Marine

Ditto. Can't remember last time I pulled a drain plug, have no intention of removing one again as long as I live.