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#1
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'84 300sd Rotor and Hub loose, but won't come off
Hi all,
I'm halfway through a full brake job, and have my first front rotor and hub ready to come off. I took off the spindle nut and caliper, the bearing fell out and the rotor and hub are loose, but when I pull, they just clunk back and forth a bit. I tried some hammer persuasion, no luck. It feels like there is some sort of retainer. What am I missing? Thanks, Jack |
#2
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never mind. got it. haha
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#3
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Well, what was it ?
Call for help to fixed in 9 minutes ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#4
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Just got to pull a little harder.
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Jim |
#5
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if you are changing the rotor, you need to know how to unbolt it from the hub!
yeah, that grease seal will GRAB and feel like it's stuck on something sometimes... that or you forgot to pull the caliper off...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#6
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The spindle nut and outer bearing were off, and the rotor and hub were just flopping around on the spindle. It would move out ~.250 but no further. I hit it with a hammer while turning it (probably damaged the bearing... should have just gotten a new one rather than giving myself another project) and eventually it came off. I need to just bit the bullet and buy a 3 jaw puller.
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#7
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Quote:
This situation tells you, however, that you need to polish the spindle with some very fine emery cloth (I like 400) prior to reinstallation. Otherwise the same problem will occur when you attempt to seat the newly repacked bearing. The clearances between the bearings and the spindle are very tight..........on the order of .0005". The inner bearing typically gets damaged when the mechanic removes the inner seal to remove the inner bearing. If any prying is done against the bearing, you will damage it. You did remove the inner bearing for a proper repack...........right? |
#8
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I did not remove and repack the inner bearing- only the outer. I also had the thing jammed at an angle. I'm pretty sure I messed it up because of the thunkthunkthunk I get when turning to the one side. I've got another thread going about my brake buzz issue... looks like I'll be tearing the front end apart again soon.
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#9
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Quote:
As stated, be real careful in removing the seal. You cannot pry on the bearing. I take a screwdriver and lightly deform the ouside edge to break it loose from the hub. Then I pry it off the hub with an 18" bar. However, the leverage is given by pushing down on an old brake pad that is sitting just inside the rotor. The tip of the bar is behind the seal and you can smack the far end of the bar to get the seal to move. Hit it a few times at various angular positions and it will pop right out. You are aware that the seal is toast upon removal and you need a new (2) to complete the job? |
#10
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I just purchased a Ruville bearing kit (comes with 2 bearings and a dust seal) off peachparts. It will go in once it arrives. Thanks for the help, folks.
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#11
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One of those "cold shot" sprays would probably assist greatly, especially if you warm the hub first. |
#12
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Thanks |
#13
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That would be incredibly unlikely. What usually falls out is the inner race (not to be confused with the inner bearing) and the tapered rollers. The outer race should have remained behind in the hub.
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