Working on my friends E300D. Going to attempt glow plugs.: It has 606 engine. I notice it runs pretty slow off the line. Unless I downshift or floor it so it downshifts, it seems a bit slow. It will cruise at 90 on highway no problem.

Are these 606 non turbos just a bit slow? I'm used to a 603 turbo without an alda.

Thanks

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

The engine also runs at about 60C or 70C on highway -- halfway below the 80C line and the next line down. Not sure what that next line down below 80C is on the temp gauge. 40? I'm going to replace the thermostat.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

I have a 96E300d non-turbo, and its not the quickest car off the line, but I have no trouble keeping up with stop and go traffic. On the highway, the car has more than enough power tp keep up with traffic. My temperature will stay just a hair below the 80 mark, depending on traffic and outside temperature. As for the glow plugs, a lot of PB blaster, and patience are in order. Some posters recommend getting the engine up to temperature before trying to remove the plugs. Buru lists the breaking point of their glow plugs to be about 46 N/m, so when I did mine, I used a torque wrench to stay within that limit, and screwed the plug back and forth. Sometimes, I would only be able to get it to move a quarter of a turn before I needed to apply more PB Blaster and let it sit for a while. It is not a question of the threads binding up so much as it is the carbon buildup holding the tip of the plug. I would recommend that prior to installing the new plugs, you use a glow plug reamer to get rid of the carbon buildup. Good luck!!

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96 E300d

Wow. I got mine to turn one click worth on my craftsman ratchet - probably like 1/15 of a complete turn. Took me 7 hours to remove 6 glow plugs on Thanksgiving Day - and one was not super tight.

With regards to poor performance:
Replace fuel filters
Replace air filter
Make sure throttle linkage rods and related springs are not worn out.
Make sure injector nozzles are spraying properly and within spec
Make sure resonance flaps on the intake are connected and working properly - this was the key for my car
Make sure fuel tank screen/strainer is clean and free of slime.

With attention to these areas, you'll have yourself a regular Swamp Rat.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

Connerm,

These resonance flaps, I see the vac hose going to them. How do they work? What is their purpose?

I can mighty vac them and make sure they move when i clean the intake. But when should they be getting vacuum from the system?

Thanks

__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

Thanks all for tips. I'm wondering if pulling injectors would and spraying some carbon cleaner or something in there and trying to unstick them from the inside would help? Maybe i could fill the prechambers with diesel and let it sit?

Also, I just replaced the intake gasket last year when i did the fuel o rings. Since this is a non turbo, i'm thinking i'm probably ok to reuse it . Worst thing that can happen is a little oil leaks out and it gets black around the edges ? I'm thinking with a turbo you will have pressure and the blow out would be more severe and you wouldn't want to lose your boost pressure. Anyone reuse their intake gasket?

__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

I have a solution that will definitely work and will dramatically shorten the time required to pull those plugs.

Get an impact wrench.

Before you do a thing to the plugs, you must calibrate that wrench to a known fastener. It will take you about an hour or so to find a suitable fastener and tighten it with a torque wrench to 35 lb-ft. and "calibrate" the impact wrench by restricting its air supply so that it cannot have an output greater than 35 lb.-ft.

Do this calibration carefully. Tighten with the torque wrench and carefully mark the fastener for position. Remove the fastener and tighten with the impact wrench and be absolutely sure that the impact wrench tightens the fastener to the exact same position. If you err..........err on the side of caution.

Now, take the "calibrated" impact wrench and blast away on the plugs. My guess is that it will take no more than 5 minutes per plug to safely dislodge them from the carbon.

Why spend an hour turning the plug back and forth 100X, when the impact wrench can do it in a matter of seconds?

The required homework is crucial, however. Don't attempt this without it.


One other option: Find a 30 lb-ft. torque stick. This device limits the torque to the fastener by twisting. Saves all the work of the calibration..............

Great idea brian. I may try that. Can you get an impact wrench in there ? I see the torque stick extension online. It's 6.5 inches long. Does it work in reverse as well as forward?

Anyone have any thoughts on pulling the injectors and trying to ungunk them from the inside? I've never pulled an injector on the 606. I guess i'll try #1 since its my first bad plug and see what i can see.

Thanks

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

I don't own one of them, so I cannot comment on the clearances. But, I was under the assumption that the plugs are a straight shot downward from above as they live between the four valves.

If this is true, you have, effectively, unlimited space above the plug.

The torque stick works in either direction and I encourage you to procure it if you can find one that is 30 lb-ft. 35 lb-ft. might also be OK..........but, I would doubt its availability.

If you do it, please advise of your success............or not.

Cleaning worn out injectors is a waste of time if the nozzles and pintles are worn out. My new injectors at around 250,000 miles made a HUGE difference in performance in my car.

I don't suggest putting anything in the injector holes except the injectors. What if diesel gets into the exhaust?

You can reuse the intake gasket but a new one from Phil is only $15.

I set my impact driver appropriately after doing a lot of checks with my torque wrenches as Mr. Carlton suggests. This is an excellent idea and one I took seriously a while back. With the engine out of the car, it is the only way to go, but unless you want to remove the wiring harness, the altitude compensator, the oil filter housing and the washer bottle coolant hoses, there isn't enough space in front of the glow plugs to allow for the socket and the impact wrench. You can use the impact with extensions, wobbles, and universal joints, but then the math gets too complex. Angles affect torque. I was barely able to get a deep well socket and my small craftsman ratchet in front of plug #6. I have an aircraft-manufacturing-grade Ingersoll-Rand right angle 3/8 drive impact head attachment and it wasn't even close to being able to fit.

It took me a bunch of time to remove the plugs. Time I had. What I don't have is $ to remove broken plug. With respect.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

No . They are not above. They are in side of head under the intake ports . The injectors are directly on top going straight down.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

Right..................can't remember $hit........

Now, you'll have to check on how much space you have outward from them............you'll probably need 15" or so with the torque stick.

If the guage is correct, it really needs another 15 degrees of operating temp to make power.

Funny, my 606 I just did Viton o rings on the lines, had the intake cleaned out, and decided to see if the GP's were stuck, altough they were changed 35K ago.

All but one is stuck. And the one I really tried to work ( PB and back and forth), is now shorting, so I am oblidged to finish the job. Methinks I'll punt to the local German mech on this one, as his shop is well equipped to drill it out if need be. What a PITA. If you do the job, do it HOT. Remember, you can start these engnes with no intake if need be.

Anyway, resue old intake gaskets? Heck yeah. I did put a new one down ( engine has 210K), but used some Indian head shellac to ensure it sticks to the head, allowing me to R&R the intalke repeatedly with no tearing. I have sometimes even "greased" the intake if I knew there was a lot of R&R to be done ( this on a big block chevy, so its even more ciritcal). The 210K mile gasket I did not reuse as dont think I could have cleaned it up well enough. so it depends on the gasket condition. At 200K, spend the $15 and glue a new one down.

Lastly, my 96 has some decent "legs" after cleaning that intake out. But if you dont let the trans get into first gear when you stomp on it, its a slug. The 606 can see 5000 rpm with ease, so if you want some oomph, manually downshift or ensure it is in lowest gear. These trannys are funny, they don't downshift into first until you're stopped it seems.

BTW, real nice power gain form the intake cleaning. It was the only real change.

DONT pull the injectors or fill your cyliders with fuel. You need a special socket and you'll need to replace the heat shields upon install. If you pull the injectors it should be to have them cleaned, nozzles checked for wear, and pop tested.

And not for nothing but my n/a 606 as quick as those 5 cyl turbos, which, of course, is like 12 sec 0-60 times, so not quick at all!.

This is my "fastest" NA606 of three, and I beleive it has to do with its excellent sealing. It's "finicky" on some summer blends of D2. reckon due to it having all of its 23:1 compression rato and 375 psi of cranking cylinder psi. Doesnt lose much power on B100 due to its solid compression, imho. My 95 needed rings, and the 97 ( which I totaled) was never as spirited as even the poor sealing 95. It also had an unusual "slapping" noise internal to the engine that you could hear with the oil filler cap off. Thought it was the chain. Sounded more like piston skirt slap. That is why I let the car get totaled in lieu of fixing it. I can build a big block Chevy to net 700 ft lbs for the same cost as rebuilding a 606! But MbZ fenders are CHEAP!

When you get the 606 in a good state of tune, its not a total slug. LASTLY, watch that PCV plumbing. It tripped me up. I forgot to order new bungs and broke near all of them when I pulled the intake. If you dont plan on replacing the PCV plumbing, you'll have to be UBER careful to not break the bungs off.

And they come from the FatherLand,. so,,, it aint overnight delivery.


Sorry, long post. Thanks for the diversion from work and best of luck!

Thanks gents. Great advice. Re pulling injectors, it wasn't to clean them. It was to clean the carbon around the glow plug and get an eye on the carbon build up from the inside. Maybe spray some pb blaster or carbon cleaner on the back side. Something that would evaporate by the time i'm done. But I don't want to blow engine up.

Sounds like first thing i need to do is change that thermostat

__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

PeachPartsWiki: Broken Glow Plug Removal

What a nice link posted by whunter in his glow plug thread. Doesn't look too hard. Never the less, since this isn't my car, My plan is to throw it on the tow dolly and drive it to the local indy 10 miles away. They say they are good at it.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius