Trying to compile thoughts on coil spring compressors - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

engatwork · #16 12-18-2011, 07:56 PM

Quote:

I actually ordered myself an El Paso model tonight. The billing on Ebay was from Baum Tools. I have read very good things about their unit so - cool I am hoping I'll be all set!!!!

I think that is the one that I picked up a few years ago. I will note that when you slide the disc into the spring you want to "screw" the plates towards the ends of the spring as they can go and still get the tensioner in. Once you have tightened the spring compressor you can use a floor jack, remove the lower control arm, inner adjustment bolt and lower the control arm to the ground. Pretty straight forward.

vstech · #17 12-18-2011, 11:00 PM

on the 124, the spring is contained in a shorter area, and the clone tool is possible to use, but difficult... the Klann with the short shaft is the correct tool for the 124. without it, you will be fighting the threaded portion of the compressor getting in and out of the car with the spring.

I've used the clone, and the klann. I'd only use the clone on the 126, as the hole is bigger. but I don't like to dremel on my cars.
I've rented out the clone and the klann. I've never had issues with either.

Brian Carlton · #18 12-18-2011, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

on the 124, the spring is contained in a shorter area, and the clone tool is possible to use, but difficult... the Klann with the short shaft is the correct tool for the 124. without it, you will be fighting the threaded portion of the compressor getting in and out of the car with the spring.

I've used the clone, and the klann. I'd only use the clone on the 126, as the hole is bigger. but I don't like to dremel on my cars.
I've rented out the clone and the klann. I've never had issues with either.

Would you know if the latest clone from Baum is a bit narrower in the body and will fit the W123 without modification? Rumor has it............???

vstech · #19 12-18-2011, 11:19 PM

mine is wide, I've not heard this rumor...
I've often wondered if the clone could work if milled down... NO way I'm trying it, just wondering.
the difference between the clone and the Klann is hardly anything!!!

Brian Carlton · #20 12-18-2011, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the difference between the clone and the Klann is hardly anything!!!

...........about .070" on the diameter...........

tankowner · #21 12-18-2011, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

I think that is the one that I picked up a few years ago. I will note that when you slide the disc into the spring you want to "screw" the plates towards the ends of the spring as they can go and still get the tensioner in. Once you have tightened the spring compressor you can use a floor jack, remove the lower control arm, inner adjustment bolt and lower the control arm to the ground. Pretty straight forward.

X2

I have one as well and I agree that you need to get the two plates as far apart as possible when setting them in the springs to really compress them enough for removal. I also had to widen the holes on my 123 to get the compressor shaft through. I picked up a die grinder from HF and that worked really well. Like Charlie said, be sure to treat the bare metal once you're done, but it wasn't a big deal to me.

Diesel911 · #22 12-19-2011, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmcphee

Umm, so everybody who's used an external type compressor has died?

These answers seem very alarmist.

How could a manufacturer make something rated for 1200 lbs survive in the market if every customer dies?

What's so special about a Mercedes spring that a Klann type is required?

It is not alarmist because the Front Springs on the Mercedes Diesel must be 3-5 times stronger than a comparable domestic Cars.
Also several Members besides Myself have tried the normal Spring Compressors and had they get bent or twisted.

I tried the Harbor freight claw type Spring Compressors and what happens is the threaded Rod bent on them.

I replaced the stock threaded rod with 5/8" threaded rod. That also bent.
After that I decided to make my own Spring Compressor.

Note that the Hooked shaped Compressor that I made has 1" Threaded Rod and that did not bend. So it is not impossible for a Claw type Spring Compressor to work it is just that no Company makes ones that are strong enough.

Brian Carlton · #23 12-19-2011, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Not that the Hooked shaped Compressor that I made has 1" Threaded Rod and that did not bend. So it is not impossible for a Claw type Spring Compressor to work it is just that no Company makes ones that are strong enough.

Your 1" threaded rod has a yield strength in tension of approx. 35,000 lb. if you used mild steel.

The tensile load on the rod was probably on the order of 2,000 lb. or less.

The reason that you had to use 1" rod was to overcome the massive bending moment caused by the fact that the load was not aligned with the centerline of the rod.

On the Klann, or the clones, the load acts almost perfectly down the center of the actuation screw............thereby ensuring no bending moment on the screw............and allowing no risk in fully compressing the spring.

Any of the purchased side pull compressors with threaded rods of less than 1" are not satisfactory for the task.

biopete · #24 12-19-2011, 06:18 AM

Something else to keep in mind -- two different sizes of plates . I borrowed the Indie mechanic's spring compressor tool to do front control arms on my W124. Not sure if it was the Klann or the knock off. It had two sets of plates with it. One time he gave me the smaller plates. They worked like a charm just like the Klann video

The next time i used it i grabbed the wrong set of plates, the bigger ones. It was a pita to get it, had to go upside down, in from the top. . I think the W126 uses the bigger plates or something. But some tools might have "universal" size that won't be as ideal for the W124.

vstech · #25 12-19-2011, 07:35 AM

the bigger plates are for the rear springs... so, they are not needed, as the subframe dropped safely releases the springs in the rear.

charmalu · #26 12-19-2011, 11:06 AM

First time I used mine was at PNP removing the front springs from an old 240D.
with the cars sitting up on those welded rims for stands, the suspention hangs down, and the spring has a curve to it. after hand filing the hole down with a rasp, which seemed to take for ever.
I place in the lower plates and upper and slide the rod in, well the rod is straight and the lower plate is off a bit. after fiddling with it, I get the rod in, but can`t get it to lock in securely with the lower plate. now it is in a bind, and cant get it to release, and my tool is stuck.

Jacks are not allowed, and I even scoured through several rows of cars looking for an elusive jack. It is getting close to closing time and Iam in a panic, can`t leave my tool in this car over night.

Don`t remember what I did but finally got it to release. then moved the lower plate up a coil or so and compressed the spring. It didn`t compress it enough to remove it, so I had to remove the nut for the upper control arm and lower steering knuckle, once it dropped I got the spring out. It was compressed enough it wasn`t a problem.

Man what a learning experience.

Charlie

ds190 · #27 12-19-2011, 11:08 AM

Any difference known between the compressor in the red box v. the one in the blue box, besides the color of the plates?

My Christmas present to me is one or the other.

benedict · #28 12-19-2011, 07:59 PM

I'm saving up for a Klann as it is the only thing I will trust with my life.

I had one break when working on my Vette and when the spring opened up, it left a hole about 1inch deep in the concrete.

Just scarry how much energy is stored in a compressed spring.

vstech · #29 12-19-2011, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

First time I used mine was at PNP removing the front springs from an old 240D.
with the cars sitting up on those welded rims for stands, the suspention hangs down, and the spring has a curve to it. after hand filing the hole down with a rasp, which seemed to take for ever.
I place in the lower plates and upper and slide the rod in, well the rod is straight and the lower plate is off a bit. after fiddling with it, I get the rod in, but can`t get it to lock in securely with the lower plate. now it is in a bind, and cant get it to release, and my tool is stuck.

Jacks are not allowed, and I even scoured through several rows of cars looking for an elusive jack. It is getting close to closing time and Iam in a panic, can`t leave my tool in this car over night.

Don`t remember what I did but finally got it to release. then moved the lower plate up a coil or so and compressed the spring. It didn`t compress it enough to remove it, so I had to remove the nut for the upper control arm and lower steering knuckle, once it dropped I got the spring out. It was compressed enough it wasn`t a problem.

Man what a learning experience.

Charlie

hint for use on these situations...
install the rod into the spring with the socket and an extension on the tool it makes it SOOOOO much easier to align stuff, and get the plate hooked in.

vstech · #30 12-19-2011, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benedict

I'm saving up for a Klann as it is the only thing I will trust with my life.

I had one break when working on my Vette and when the spring opened up, it left a hole about 1inch deep in the concrete.

Just scarry how much energy is stored in a compressed spring.

and the vette spring is 1/10th the pressure of an MB spring.

the clone tools are PERFECTLY safe. plenty of strength in that design. ONLY use the clone of the Klann, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE EXTERTERNAL SCREW CLAMPS!!!!!
only trust center bolt with dual plate style compressors.
it's a good idea to regrease the tool after each use.

I ABSOLUTELY love my Klann, and I have the style with both the short and the long shafts.
it is available for rent, and if you only need if for one job, that's the way I'd do it.

I'll waive rental fees on the klann tool until Jan 15 for ONE WEEK rentals only!