My 300d euro w124 has uneven tire wear. The outer edge ( Like on he very edge) of the tire is getting bald. The front left tire . it pulls to the right so I have to hold the steering wheel to the left. I haven't looked at the ball joint or anything yet. Is there complete front end rebuild kits? What could my issue be upper lower ball joint?

Mercedes W124 W201 R129 190E E320 SL500 NEW Front Lower Control Arm Kit | eBay


Also will all 300e stuff work on my 300d?

Thanks

Make sure the tire looks okay otherwise. I has the same pulling issue in my 240 and it turned out that the front left tire became de-laminated. And was near blowing out. Pull the tire off and give it a good look over.

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Have you checked the steering linkage? There might be tired tie rods, drag link or idler arm bushings. Are any tie rod or drag link end boots torn?

86 and 87 have the benefit of replaceable ball joints. It costs less in parts to get LCA bushings and ball joints separately. Obviously more work. If you get control arms with integral ball joints, it's shouldn't have to be said but you won't be able to replace just the ball joints in the future. Whichever way you go, get proper replacement parts. Either MB brand or OEM built to original specs. Be wary of suppliers such as in the eBay listing that don't specify the manufacturer. This forum is choking on posts of the results of installing substandard suspension parts.

300E steering and suspension parts generally work on a 300D. Springs might be different. Note that MB changed 124 Pitman and idler arms and drag links in 90 or 91. The drag link doesn't interchange between early and late 124s. Later pins are bigger and the drag link itself is a different length.

Sixto
87 300D

Ok I will look. I posted eBay for questions only I will be checking for parts here :-) do the ball joints need to be pressed or can I to it in the garage?

Before you go tearing your front end apart, try taking it in for a wheel alignment and brake check. You will find out very quickly if any of the front end parts need replacing, as the tech will not be able to align the front end, and they will let you know in no uncertain terms, complete with estimate, how much it will cost to get the front end adjustable!!! Of course, their estimate will include "their" price for the parts, and "their" overinflated hourly rate to complete the job. Of course, you can do it yourself for a lot less, especially if you give Phil a call for the parts!!!!

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

Quick and easy (also free) test: put your spare on in place of the worn tire. If the pulling and handling issues disappear, then you know your front ends is okay.

I've personally experienced some of the most weird handling and pulling and jerking/shaking issues caused by a bad tire. When the belts separate in the carcass (often not visible to the untrained eye) all sorts of problems can result.

Good luck, I hope it's just a shot tire.

usually a tire with wear on the edge, down to the belt, is in very, very bad need of alignment. Remember, the tire didn't get that bad cause the front end is OK!!!! If the handling improves after changing the tire, then haul butt to whoever has the alignment service on sale, but anticipate there may be a few parts that may need changing.

Also, how are your calipers doing?

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

The right caliper squeals sometimes. I'm planning on removing the pads lube everything up clean them and put them back.
I inspected the tire closerinside is good in the middle outer edge and inner edge warn. Weired never seen that. The pressudlre was at 28 so I filled to tire recommendations 44 psi

How do you changes the ball joints will I need a press or is there another method?

Anyone out where you live give free inspections? Or free alignment inspections? Take the car in to see if you can get an alignment. If anything needs replacement, they won't be able to align the front end and will tell you what needs to be replaced, if anything.

For ball joints (lower), I found a mechanic at a tire shop who knows how to change them, and said if bring the parts, he will change them for $60 per side. They have the pull/press, and he is used to working on MBZs, so, I'll probably go that route when I have the $$ to replace them.

There are other threads on how to do it in the DIY Articles.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

Best of my knowledge says that alignment will not cause "pull", as the wheels will just center themselves toe'd in or out depending. Caster could create a pull situation so if you bring it to an alignment facility, have them check caster on both wheels.
I would imagine you have a tire issue, and that can be identified fairly easily. Check this page from TireRack - Tire Tech Information - Diagnosing Tire Pull
if nothing else, you can eliminate some potential causes.

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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

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