Hello, we are having a problem with the climate control. The defrost works kinda....but seems to have cold air going to our feet. It is especially bad when travelling on the highway. I have tried to set it differently but nothing seems to help? I have checked the monovalve and the car has a new thermostat. I have even taken the climate control unit out and resoldered all the connections on the board. I have a feeling that one of the pods is stuck open cause the blower motor is loud but considering, does not have alot of air pressure coming out the vents (defrost). It seems like the car is stuck in the defrost mode but even that has given us minimal heat to keep the windows clear if there is more than one person breathing in the car. It is -43C outside today so it is cold. Thanks.

This thread is about the 85 heat issues.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/190425-climate-control-issues-1985-300d.html

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Probably a bad pod on the foot vents. Try wedging them open and see if you get heat in the foot wells.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Thanks guys, I will try that when I get the car running again and read the attachments.

The external vents on the cowl are the source of air, so if it's -43C and there's snow/ice on those then your air flow will be reduced. If they're not clear or they melt into recesses near the firewall, that'll also draw moisture in and it'll rapidly re-fog on the glass.

You don't mention coolant temp. Are you seeing around 80 C on the gauge? If not, have you considered a partial block of the radiator with cardboard in order to keep the temps higher? Verified that the aux fan (electric fan in front of the condenser/radiator) isn't jumpered to be always on?

You can also easily remove the blower fan and check that it's not partially blocked.

Here's a link about airflow in 123's. I can't fully vouch for accuracy. Some people have said that they get heat out of the center if they modify the system, but that wouldn't work if it was exactly as depicted: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/295241-scans-airflow-w123-climate-control.html

This link shows the locations of the pods. PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the HVAC Vacuum Actuators

With the exception of the center pod, they're all pretty accessible with removing a trim panel or two. You may be able to trouble shoot the weak airflow with a mity-vac.

Could also be a bad defrost door pod. When it fails, most of the warm air goes to
the windshield, continuously.

__________________
--frankb

1982 300TD 617.912 <NLA> . 1975 2002 E10-EFI . 1976 914c6 . 1983 MG LMIII <NLA>. 1988 Montero / 616<NLA> . 2001 TLS . 2005 Saab 9-5 Wagon