Well I need big time help, I need to reinstall an injection pump.

Heres the low down, I bought a really nice 1978 300D, that wouldn't start. The last owner had a VW mechanic pull the ip pump...then do no other work...So I bought it...now I need help.

I've read a ton of stuff on the internet and the forums about removal etc but nothing really on installing. Here is what was done, the guy just removed the oil filter housing and then pulled the IP. He didn't set the engine to 15 atdc, that I hear needs to be done nor did he lock the ip pump. He told me all I had to do was match up the spline to the gear in the engine and re bolt it on. I doubt this is the case. Theres also a collar that was on it, that slid on the ip then onto the gear in the engine. He also didn't mark the ip...so it will need to be timed too.

Well I just need help, advice. I know it shouldn't be to difficult but since I didn't pull it...that makes it difficult...I need to get it all together to fine out what the real problem is

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Ouch. That's a hefty load to assume so early in the ownership process.

My IP is going back later this week, so I've been heavily researching the process, myself. I have a W115 240D, so my numbers and specs might not apply, but perhaps my post can serve as a rough guideline.

To pull/install an IP on a 616 requires the crank to be set at 45 degrees below top dead center on the compression stroke.

Further, there are marks on the front of the IP. One is on the spline, itself (properly a gap of two teeth) and then a mark on the housing. When reinstalling, the cam needs to be set two teeth before delivery. That is, the gap on the splines needs to be two teeth counterclockwise from the mark on the housing. With the 616, the IP will "rachet" two spots when reattached to the block and and the timing should then be on.


Here's a blurry photo that I happen to have on my phone. Hopefully you can see the mark on the housing and line it up with the splines to get an idea of what I'm talking about. The line on the housing is faint, but you can see it at roughly the 12 o'clock position just above the splines.



As for the coupling, even though there's a key way I don't think it matters how you line it up since there's no key.

Once it's loosely bolted back in place, and fuel lines reconnected, you'll need to dial in the timing. That's an entirely different thread.

If it were me and I had my IP out and I planned on having the car for a while, I'd have it bench tested. It cost about $300 for my local Bosch shop to test mine, and another $450 or so to replace and repair the worn and broken parts.

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

Yep I know, it is...I was very very very skeptical to buy the car not knowing what is wrong with it and the ip laying in the truck. The car was only 475$ and the transmission was rebuilt a year before it was parked, and there is thousands of dollars spent on other stuff...so I have to at least attempt to get it running.

I would take my ip in, for a check up and rebuild...but before I spend that kind of cash...I want to make sure the engine is fine. So I have to get everything back together and running...I found a kill switch hid in the car...and I think this is why it wouldn't start...

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Okay, well doing more research and reading I found out how...now it makes since...Just a question...where are the TDC marks at on the car? I supposing mine are covered in grease. Here is a link to the pages that I found in my book for future reference for anyone.

Removal and installation of injection pump

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My fsm says 24 degrees before top dead center, and this is what I have done.this is for a 616, or 617 in the 123 chassis

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1977 240D turbo

Cool thanks.

I am wondering, does anyone know if I soaked the ip in gas would it help to remove the gunked up veggie oil? I removed the lift pump and its frozen solid, I have it soaking now to see if it unfreezes.

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Ditto. Have an extra IP that was used with wvo, want to clean it up before I swap it. Is it ok to put these in a parts washer? Or if I just leave it alone and run a filter after it for a bit to protect the injectors and run a cleaner through it installed?