well, that definition really cleared it up for me. NOT!

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2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4
1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT
1985 300 SD
1978 300 CD
1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration

search a million threads in here with "ALDA" and your car type... you'll find pix

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

On a 1983 300SD how does one loosen the 10mm bolt to make the adjustment? There isn't room to get a wrench or a socket in ther. That adjustment screw appears to be copper. Whatever it is it's a soft material. I was trying to adjust mine and I severed off the top part of the bolt from the force of the screwdriver. Due to the fact that I couldn't (didn't) loosen the 10mm bolt.
So I plugged off the vacuum line to and from the ALDA. It doesn't seem to have made any difference performance wise.
Is plugging off the vacuum lines not the same as removing the ALDA? I was hoping for some power on the hills but no dice.

The unit has a 10mm locknut to prevent wanton adjustments. There is a sheet metal can that surrounds this locknut, also for the same purpose. Most folks just tear off the sheet metal can so that adjustments can easily be performed.

As you, unfortunately, found out, the adjustment screw is a very tender piece of equipment and can easily be broken if forced. The ALDA can also be damaged if the screw is forced too far. You hurt your case even more by leaving the locknut engaged.

My suspicion is that the ALDA is not performing properly whatsoever as you have plugged the boost pressure line that is attached to it and no performance difference was observed.

My suggestion to you, to return this vehicle to excellent performance, is to remove the ALDA entirely from the IP. The device is a limiting feature, designed to prevent excessive smoke when the engine doesn't have sufficient air from the turbo. Without the ALDA, you can prevent such smoke by limiting your right foot when the engine is below 2500 rpm.

To remove the device, you'll need two wrenches. One wrench must be very thin and it fits the wrench flats on the bottom of the ALDA itself. The second wrench can be of normal width and fits the nut that is below these wrench flats. Position the two wrenches so that you can squeeze them together with one hand. The top wrench (the one on the ALDA) must turn counterclockwise (viewed from the top) and the lower wrench (the one on the nut) must turn clockwise. If you position the wrenches properly, you can break the nut free with one squeeze of your hand. At that point, simply unthread the ALDA from the nut by rotating it counterclockwise.

That's it.

The vehicle's performance will be nothing short of astounding and you'll be back on here thanking us for the advice.

Thanks Brian! With the ALDA removed is a dust cap type thing required? Another question; are the two vacuum lines going to the 3/2 junction on the valve cover just for the EGR or are they for the tranny shifting? I have disabled the EGR and I have tried removing the 2 vac lines mentioned above and neither is helping my power on hills. My two plastic levers were completely worn out, the ones beneath the plastic cover behind the 3/2 vacuum thing on the valve cover. I can live with the shifting not being perfect but I NEED some power in the hills.
I have replaced my fuel filters, put in straight diesel, replaced air filter all to no benefit power wise. Perhaps it is my tank screen but I am somewhat doubtful. I checked it a couple years ago and it was fine, and I filter my veg to 5 microns.
It was running pretty good till I tried cleaning my engine compartment last week. Same day I put an adjustable hose camp - tight on the crankcase vent tube, and made up a new gasket going under the oil filler gasket to help keep the engine bay clean.

The requirement for a dust cap is somewhat open to question. Some have manufactured same and some have not. I'm not sure if the IP is adversely affected without it.

The 3/2 valves on the valve cover only serve to run the EGR on that specific vehicle. Be a bit careful, however, because the vacuum for the transmission goes to a T that splits............one leg goes to the IP............the other goes to the black box on the valve cover. You can eliminate the section that goes to the valve cover.

The use of WVO presents another serious variable to proper engine function. It is fairly well documented that the improper use of WVO will result in less than desirable durability of the engine and the IP. So, unless you are one of the few who knows exactly how to process and use this alternate fuel without damage (two tank system with heaters and extensive filtering), the resulting performance of the engine might be compromised and there will be no return to proper performance without significant repair.

Well here I am back and thanking you all for the ALDA delete. I have not enjoyed performance since I bought this car 3 1/2 years back, almost like the wife's Mazda gasser.
I realize this is not the place to get into WVO discussions, and I will never claim to have it all figured out but I have been doing this as for the past 3 years and I have done fairly extensive research. I use only Canola and have redundant filtration down to 5 microns as well as cold uplflow settling. As well as blending with diesel as a solvent I use some Powerservice injector cleaner in all my fill ups. And while this practice is not without perils, at .30c/liter as opposed to 1.40c/liter it's hard to ignore the cost benefits.
Thanks again for sharing.

I remove the allen bolt in the shift modulator valve, closest to the ALDA, then using a 1-1/16" and 15/16" wrench, break the nuts loose, then just spin the ALDA up while holding the large nut on the IP.

Get a couple of Harbor Freight wrenches and grind them down as thin as required.

Be aware there are usually 1-2 shims under the ALDA, These shims are unique and measure about 14.30mm I.D, x 17.90mm O.D and every .75mm is equivalent to 1 turn of the adjustment screw...Robert

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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership