I'm curious if it's possible to remove the belts from the steering pump and the AC without removing any of their respective bolts? We're talking a 1983 300SD.

I just completed changing the crankshaft seal and I believe I tightened the belts too tight. When I start the car, I hear a weird knocking noise that I believe is coming from the AC. I want to remove the bolts entirely to see if I can eliminate the source of the noise. I know I can loosen the belts without removing any of the mounting bolts, but worst case scenario, I'm looking for the easiest/quickest way to remove/attach the belts entirely.

On the power steering pump, there is the adjusting bolt on the top, to loosen the belt (after the 3 crossways bolts are loosened). However, it doesn't look like the pump slides far enough to remove the belt unless some of the cross bolts are removed. Or is there a way to remove the belt without removing any of the long bolts?

On the AC compressor, there are 3 bolts in the rear (top, left, bottom/right). The top bolt is stationary, where as the left bolt slides up/down and the bottom bolt slides left/right. I noticed there is a TINY adjusting nut on TOP, connected to the left most bolt, that takes a 10mm long shaft ratchet socket.

Unfortunately, the AC lines that route to the radiator are in the way of the adjusting nut, and the only way I can think of getting it out of the way is to disconnect the AC lines, which means removing the 15mm bolt at the bottom of the compressor as well as removing the 10mm bolt on the side (close to the chassis) that attaches the hard lines to a mounting bracket. There is very little clearance to do this, and it's a royal pain to get done.

I was wondering if there's a way to adjust/remove the AC belt without removing the large mounting bolts?

From what it seems like, it requires loosening all 3 mounting bolts, (and possibly removing the top stationary bolt as I'm not sure if the left bolt rotates or just moves down), detaching the hard lines from the rear as well as the mounting bracket, and then getting (via the top) to the adjusting nut for the compressor. There is enough exposed threading on the adjusting nut to lead me to believe it can slide all the way down to allow the belt to be removed.

Cut IT!

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Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"

The AC actually works, so that's not an option. I'm curious if I'm doing it right or if there's a more PROPER way.

If the AC works I would venture a guess that you do not want to remove any of the lines!

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1985 300D
The rest:
1957 MGA (comatose)
1965 Falcon (sleeping)
1966 E-100 (rust test in progress)
1976 Ford 3400 D Tractor (workhorse)
1978 Mercury Zephyer (5L playtoy)
1995 Isuzu NPR D (fetcher)
1998 Subaru Legacy (Spare)
2000 Toyota Sienna (School bus)
2008 Toyota Prius (Commuter)

The steering belt can be taken off and and put on without removing any of the 13mm bolts but what I do is get the belt started then turn the engine (clockwise only) by hand to get it in the "grove".

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I've replaced hundreds of belts on these cars, and never had to remove any bolts...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Take the guesswork out of the process.

Amazon.com: Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester: Automotive

Possibly available at NAPA as well.

In my experience, a/c compressor noise is often the result of a loose belt.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

There should be enough movement on the PS pump and the compressor to remove the belts without removing any bolts - assuming you have the proper length belts installed. I'm pretty sure I've read threads where people talk about a longer- or shorter- belt to either stop squeal or adjust.

The PS pump and compressor each have three mounting bolts and one adjusting bolt - pretty much as you described. I've got some pics in my thread here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/281663-installing-compressorworks-r4-into-w123.html

They are in the same orientation: upper inboard = pivot, two other mounting bolts swing/rotate, fourth small bolt adjusts tension or position. On the W123 R4 compressor and bracket that's a eye-bolt.

Are you sure it's the A/C lines causing the compressor to not move? On my car the oil cooler line was in the way. I had to loosen the oil cooler hose mounting bracket.

I think Tango's intent would be for you to set the correct tension on the belts BEFORE trying to remove them to isolate the noise. You can also just turn the compressor off, and the pulley should spin freely without any compressor load. Turn it on, then listen...