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#1
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I'm new to this site - fantastic!
I'm looking for info on proper removal procedure of the plastic door pockets found on 81'-85' 123 models (specifically my 83 300CD) Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks - Mike 74 240D - sold 83 300SD - sold 84 300D - sold 85 300D - sold 83 300TD - sold 87 300D - sold current: 83 300CD, 82 300D, 83 300D and 82 240D |
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#2
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door panal removal:
1st search archives for "door panal removal."
Here is a list. On the edges of the panel you have three chrome protectors. Remove them with phillips screw driver. Then if there is a locking knob remove it.If not there is a latch with a phillips screw behing it remove it. Then there is the door latch opener.There is a black plactic cover behind latch. Take pocket knife and pry out each edge and remove it. There is a phillips screw remove it. On driverside the arm rest has two large phillips screw remove them. On passenger side there are three. Remove the bottom two and then you will loosen the panel and get last one. Now with a tool or kitchen case knife pry up panel from edges starting at a bottom corner.You will do this all across the bottom and both sides. Not the top! With panel loose on bottom and sides remove last screw on passanger side arm rest.Then lift out the bottom and pull upward.The top is secured with clamps. These are little pieces of bent metal. They will release sometime with help. Make sure that the plastic sheet is between door and door panel. If it is missing replace with a trash bag and trim. This is a moister barrier. that keep the masonite dry when it rains. Charlie |
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#3
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Door Pocket Removal
I appreciate the reply Charlie - Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that the pocket has to be removed before the panel. It appears that the pocket is attached through the panel and into the steel inner door .
Thanks - Mike |
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#4
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Door Pocket Removal
I appreciate the input Bill -
I'll give it a try - Thanks - Mike |
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#5
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The pocket has an integral hook that goes through the door panel and hooks into the metal inner panel of the door. Once you have everything loose you will need to pull the door panel slightly back and then away from the door to free the pocket. The pocket hook is located on the front upper area/top front corner of the pocket. If you should break the hook, then epoxy it back on.
I wrote about removing the door panel in a thread about the window regulator - look that thread up for more info. Charlie wrote a good outline about how to remove the door panel, but the thread I responded to has more detail including specific tools needed or suggested. Charlie makes a good point about the plastic liner, repair or replace it if needed and M-B uses a grease-like substance to secure it to the door (not the door panel) and there should be enough left to re-attach the liner. Good Luck! Tom
__________________
America: Land of the Free! 1977 300D: 300,000+ miles American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad. Formerly: Shop Foreman; Technical Advisor to Am. Honda; Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex. |
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#6
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Door Pocket removal
Thanks Tom - The info should allow me to remove the replacement pocket on my parts car without breaking the hooks.
Many Thanks - Mike |
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#7
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Pocket removal:
On my 85cd the door pocket is afixed to the door panal. On the drivers side one of the gizmos was broke,missing gone. So I took a sheetmetal screw and washer and reattached the blood thing. It worked and I didn't have to go out and try and find a blue door panal with pocket. And if I don't tell you,which I didn't my wife you or she don't know. So what she don't know don't hurt me. Charlie
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#8
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Door Pockets
Thanks Charlie - I think that I have the information that I needed, - Mike
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#9
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In ignorance I broke both front door pockets when taking off the trim panels at different times replacing window lock actuators. Fixed them both with screws and washers as Charlie has described.
__________________
1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold |
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#10
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Thanks to Tom I believe that I can avoid that ill fate.
Thanks for the input - Mike |
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#11
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Door pockets, what a POS. This is easily the cheesiest part on these cars, except for the trunk lid.
Oh well...:p
__________________
Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
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#12
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Some aftermarket vendors like
Performance Products have replacement door pockets at generally good prices...installing these instead of scavenged ones might not involve taking the whole door apart...maybe worth looking into.
IMHO, door pockets and seatback storage nets some of the most useful, "retro" features on these cars. |
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#13
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The seatback pockets were really poorly made until the late 1980's when they were made out of leather. The old net style tends to fall apart and sag very easily.
The trunklids are pretty bad too, but I insulated mine and carpeted it too. So now it closes with a nice "whoomp!" and when you tap on it, sounds as solid as the doors! |
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#14
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Thanks for the reply Jim B & Speedy 300D - I just picked up a 1980 model 240D - stick & sunroof for $250.00! The owner could not get it to start - I pulled it off and it cranked right up - been setting up two years - the A/C even blows cold!
Mike |
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#15
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Door Panel Vapor Barrier Adhesive!
In the past when opening up doors I re-adhered a new sheet of polyethylene to the inside of the door by using butyl windshield sealant. This is the black never-hardening rubber material that is used to secure a windshield in place. It comes as a rope usually 1/4 - 1/2 inch thick and you get 15' for $5 - $10. You just take a small piece 4" -5" and get it warmed up and then roll-it out from its' rope size thickness to a long thin string size thickness. Place it around the inside of the door area and around the openings of the door. Just press it to the steel and it will stick, then just place a new piece of polyethylene in place over it press the plastic onto the butyl string and it will stay in place then just trim the poly where needed. The butyl will stay tacky forever allowing you to open the door up in the future if you need to, just pull the poly up slowly and press it back down when your done. If you don't seal the door this way the moisture the collects and gets trapped in the door will destroy the door panel for sure!
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