![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
OM617 Injection Pump Removal
I have a friend with an '81 300SD, I've made a few posts about it in the past, I do maintenance on it for him, shocks, brakes, filters, thermostat, etc. From the day he got it it leaked a little bit of oil where the injection pump meets the block. But now it is leaking a considerable amount of oil.
It seems to be coming out where the block meets the pump and out of the bottom plate of the pump. He would like to pull the pump and replace the seals in it. Is there a good DIY article on pulling the pump? I could not find one googling around. I have pulled pumps on 60X motors, but those have the luxury of the pump lock I own, the 61X appears to not have a pump lock. So I'd like to learn about what I'm getting into in terms of timing before I pull this thing apart. Also, I am looking for a list of the external seals on a 61X, gsxr had such a list for the 60X when I resealed my 87s pump. I figured we would do delivery valve seals while we are in there. Thanks, I tried to find as much information as I could online, but there is SO much 617 talk you wind up find a lot of unrelated information. I did find someone who scanned a FSM article which is helpful in terms of removal but is vague on timing.
__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
However, it is double the cost of the newer model locking Pin. Fast Lane sells both of the IP Timing/Locking Pins. I have not seen instuctions in the FSM for the Timing/Locking Pin for the older IPs. As you said there is no front Seal between the Block and the Fuel Injection Pump but there is a Gasket. I ordered a Gasket for mine but decided I wanted a Thicker one and used it as a Templete to make a Gasket out of Thicker Material. The Bottom Pan of the IP has a Big Square O-ring that seals it. On my 123 I got the Fuel Injection Pump off without removing the Oil Filter but getting it back in with the Oil Filter On is more difficult and I modified the Rear Clamp to get it on. I had a later IP so I used the Timing/Locing Pin. Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=297458 There is no O-rings on the Delivery Valve Holders of MW Fuel Injection Pumps. They are only on the M type Fuel Injection Pumps (on 617s).
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
By seal I meant the gasket. I looked that up online is very cheap . Though I like the idea of cutting a thicker one, it's effectively a paper gasket isn't it?
This is an 81 so it should be the earlier type pump. My plan was to just pull the oil filter housing for the sake of ease on the pump. I assumed the bottom plate was like the bottom plate on the 603
__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
On my 84 300D the Fuel Injection Pump has a Plug that you would need a 17mm wrench to remove. I have a Pump from a 78 300SD and I believe it takes a 14mm wrench to remove the Plug. But, for sure it is smaller than 17mm. Unless the old Bottom Plate O-ring on the Fuel Injection Pump is just crumbling away I do not see why careful use of Silicon Sealant would not seal it if you removed the O-ring and put the Silicon between the Plate and the O-ring and put some on the sealing area where it seals to the Fuel Injection Pump. The Oil in that area enters the IP Housing under pressure but once inside it is not under pressure. The sump acts as a reservoir and the action of the moving parts splashes the Oil around. The 603 is an M type Pump and I have only seen the pictures that People have posted.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
If you cant use a locking pin to reinstall the pump, set the crank at 24 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke (#1's cam lobes more or less UP), line up the marks on the pump, and modify the back pump bracket as 911 did for in easier instillation. She will usually be close enough to fire up then you can figure out the timing thing. I also made a thicker gasket as it gets tweaked when doing the timing. I smeared a little grease on both sides to help.
__________________
![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|