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  #1  
Old 04-26-2012, 01:09 PM
He/Him
 
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Location: DC Metro/Maryland
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Starting an unknown engine

I've never done this before so I'm trying to make sure I've done the due diligence before I mess something up in an irreversible way.

OM 617.952 wagon engine
-the engine turns over and has been turned while sitting
-the chain stretch was checked
-the valves have been adjusted
-all leaks have been sealed (someone previously had loosened the oil filter housing)
-the injectors have been pulled and heat shields installed (none were there)
-new rubber injection hoses
-yes, it contains oil
-new oil filter
-new v-belts (they were missing)
-new glow plugs and holes reamed (was missing several)

The engine has been sitting for almost two years and I have no knowledge as to when it started last. It's also been disconnected from almost everything and I have no idea why. I know there was a compression test done at one point, but no idea what the numbers were.

I plan to do a compression test this Saturday and try to get the beast started. But I have a few unknowns

-the SLS is not hooked up, what should I do with the connections at the pump? Is it safe to run the engine without any oil flowing through the pump?

-I've heard to let MMO sit in the cylinders and then "blow it out" but I have no idea what that means. How does one remove MMO from the cylinders before starting?

-the transmission flywheel is bolted in but that is the extent of it's current connection to the engine. Do I need to hook the cooling lines up and have plenty of fluid in the trans? Will I damage the trans if I don't?

-Any other suggestions?

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1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2012, 01:39 PM
Zacharias's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
-I've heard to let MMO sit in the cylinders and then "blow it out" but I have no idea what that means. How does one remove MMO from the cylinders before starting?
Ideally you will have the injectors out when you pour in the MMO (personally I spray in penetrating oil one day then put in the MMO the next), leave it for at least 24 hours then crank the engine over a few times to spray any excess oil from the pots. Then reinstall the injectors.

I wouldn't worry about having a bit of MMO left over after in the combustion chambers, it will just burn off when the car is started.

EDIT: I didn't read the bit about the engine having been turned over while sitting, when I first replied. If only two years and it was turned over the MMO routine is certainly good insurance but I wouldn't say it's necessary. Your call.

For your question about the SLS pump I have run my car with mine dry or close to it and it worked after, but that doesn't qualify as a recommendation, just a statement of experience.
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  #3  
Old 04-26-2012, 01:51 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Ideally you will have the injectors out when you pour in the MMO , leave it for at least 24 hours then crank the engine over a few times to spray any excess oil from the pots. Then reinstall the injectors.

I wouldn't worry about having a bit of MMO left over after in the combustion chambers, it will just burn off when the car is started.....
When you crank over the engine, you're doing it with the starter, not by hand. This will blow the MMO out of the cylinders with the injectors out.

There is a word of caution here. You want to crank until the injector holes are no longer spraying out oil. MMO is a liquid and compressing the liquid in that small chamber could bend a rod, so make sure you got a good amount out of the chambers.


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  #4  
Old 04-26-2012, 02:22 PM
bamba's Avatar
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It might not hurt to gradually bring the oil pressure up, instead of just cranking on a dry motor. Have one person hold down the "STOP" lever, while the other person cranks with the key. Do this until the oil pressure gauge stabilizes at 3. Then release the STOP lever, and let it fire up.

This isn't ideal for the starter, but it will ensure that everything is bathed in engine oil before you start idling.
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  #5  
Old 04-26-2012, 02:40 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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If its not stuck I would just put a battery in it, check the oil and coolant and try to start it.

two years????

pffft!

Unless it had problems when it was parked it will most likely start right up.

I suspect if everything is unhooked they may have been getting ready to pull it so good chance it has issues.

Good luck!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2012, 02:52 PM
He/Him
 
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Some more info on the engine.

It was "in" the wagon when I bought it. It had been previously pulled and just placed back onto the engine mounts. Nothing else was hooked back up.

I was told that two owner's prior to me someone had pulled the engine with the intention to put it into a Land Cruiser, but that they couldn't get the engine started. A replacement engine was found for the Land Cruiser and the wagon engine was put back into the wagon before it was sold.

The previous owner never got around to doing anything with the car, having purchased it as a project. He turned the engine over regularly, but that's about it.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2012, 03:53 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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If it has compression it ought to run, unless the injection pump is shot or out of time.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 04-26-2012, 04:18 PM
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
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  #9  
Old 04-26-2012, 06:12 PM
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SLS Pump

I don't think it's a good idea to run the SLS pump dry based solely on their replacement cost. Plus, it's not good for any other pump I've come across.

If the hoses are there, I would take the time to hook them up.

If not, you may be able to rig some kind of a short loop to the resrvoir. I'm not absolutely sure about that but it seems logical.

The other option would be to remove the pump and bolt a plate over the hole.
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2012, 06:24 PM
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I had a 617-952 engine several years ago that I wanted to run before I sold. I adjusted the valves, which I knew it needed, hooked up some fuel, bolted on the starter, warmed up 4 of the 5 glow plugs, and off it went. It didn't even have a vacuum pump on it. I connected the cooler lines together with a piece of clear tubing and a couple of clamps. I sold it to another forum member.
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  #11  
Old 04-26-2012, 06:44 PM
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Well I would do the compression check first without the need for getting it running. Running and then doing the test is better (but not by much), but on an engine out of the vehicle, you know nothing about it. Adjust the valves and then do the compression test. Maybe you will find out then why it won't start. I would put a good heat lamp or two on the engine and try to get it nice and warm, or if possible let it sit in the midday sun. Then crank it and hope for the best. Better add this - since the valve cover is off might as well oil the cam shaft before cranking it over. Oil is cheap and it can only help with your compression test, so oil it up.
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1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

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Last edited by junqueyardjim; 04-26-2012 at 09:03 PM. Reason: added last sentence
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  #12  
Old 04-26-2012, 07:14 PM
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At least one member has run an SLS pump dry for months or years with no apparent damage.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #13  
Old 04-26-2012, 08:23 PM
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Posts: 103
My wagon was sitting for 5 years. I put jumper cables on it checked the fluid and fired her up. Drove it 3 miles to my brothers house to access what I bought. Found the water pump to have failed and tires went flat. I would say fire her up.
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  #14  
Old 04-26-2012, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
I had a 617-952 engine several years ago that I wanted to run before I sold. I adjusted the valves, which I knew it needed, hooked up some fuel, bolted on the starter, warmed up 4 of the 5 glow plugs, and off it went. It didn't even have a vacuum pump on it. I connected the cooler lines together with a piece of clear tubing and a couple of clamps. I sold it to another forum member.
X2
If you just want to start it, this is about what is required.
To run it for many minutes you need to start to do something with the sls pump. Heck you dont even need a radiator just to start it.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:29 PM
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Kerry - maybe you can run them dry with no negative effect. I'm just saying I, personally, wouldn't risk it.

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