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  #16  
Old 05-04-2012, 11:59 AM
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Definitely cold

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  #17  
Old 05-06-2012, 11:45 PM
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OK. I did the valve adjustment yesterday morning. There were only 3 valves that did not need adjustment, the rest definitely did. I don't notice much improvement in idle but maybe just a little. I think my main issue is fuel injection quality. The original plan was to remove and clean the injectors this weekend but a wrench got thrown into that plan when I found out my 27mm deep socket isn't deep enough to get past the return barbs on the injector. Now I have to source a special socket that I don't have the money for.

I also built the pop tester but it won't hold pressure because it leaks from the piston. I am using a Torin 10 ton porta-power style unit. To test, I filled it with clean Diesel fuel after attaching the proper fittings, line and a Ford IDI injector. Has anyone else who made a pop tester had this kind of problem? Maybe the unit is plain defective. I never tested it with the original hydraulic fluid.
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  #18  
Old 05-07-2012, 09:08 AM
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You'll need to CAREFULLY bend the return nipples slightly to be able to get the socket over.
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  #19  
Old 05-07-2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
You'll need to CAREFULLY bend the return nipples slightly to be able to get the socket over.
That scares me. Are you sure that is the best method? Would I just use some channel locks with rubber hose over the teeth?
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2012, 03:55 PM
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having searched the forum myself for advice on that particular issue that seems to be the general consensus. scared me a bit also but very little bending was needed to gain clearance so just do it carefully and you should be fine. channel locks is exactly what i used.
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  #21  
Old 05-07-2012, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
having searched the forum myself for advice on that particular issue that seems to be the general consensus. scared me a bit also but very little bending was needed to gain clearance so just do it carefully and you should be fine. channel locks is exactly what i used.
OK. Did you have to bend the barbs back out to fit the hose over them upon re-install or did the hose have enough clearance with the injector body as is?
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #22  
Old 05-07-2012, 04:31 PM
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I've got an AmPro 1 1/16" deep socket from Tractor Supply that fits without bending anything.
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  #23  
Old 05-07-2012, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnt49 View Post
I've got an AmPro 1 1/16" deep socket from Tractor Supply that fits without bending anything.
Is it this one?

AmPro T70002 1-1/16" Deep Oil Pressure Switch Socket | ToolBarn.com

$5 is cheap insurance against accidentally breaking off a barb.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #24  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:05 PM
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Cheap socket form Lowe's

It's a Kobalt 27mm and it fit right over the barbs of the 25 injectors I've collected for these motors.

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