O ring position

[cho]

hi guys

I have to swap my old silver rack bolt on IP for gold one, please advise where to put O ring
(I assume that is should be as on old one - red arrow).


TX


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[toomany MBZ]

Yes, the arrow is pointing to where it should go.

[cho]

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thanks tmbnz,

I put it in and played played played but no significant improvement..

I guess my rpm's are out of order.... will try to adjust to 750 later...


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[Beagle]

Originally Posted by cho

.

thanks tmbnz,

I put it in and played played played but no significant improvement..

I guess my rpm's are out of order.... will try to adjust to 750 later...


.

You said your engine was running perfectly after your pump Re-Cal - Yes? Why are you now changing the damper bolt?

[cho]

Originally Posted by Beagle

You said your engine was running perfectly after your pump Re-Cal - Yes? Why are you now changing the damper bolt?

was is the keyword

after 30 days it start to behave almost the same, bit less vibe though...

last bosch guys told me that rack pin is ok,but when I remove that silver piece you could not believe what kind of pin it was, just the opposite shape.

in the meantime my golden one arrived from States so I switch them ..
also I shim fuel return valve to proper length as it was 21mm.


ongoing saga I say


p.s when I ask them after those 30 days of fine work, did they change
delivery valves they responded NO, so I'm dropping those bosch guys
and will do some adjustments by myself... and some help from peach guys


.

[Beagle]

Originally Posted by cho

was is the keyword

after 30 days it start to behave almost the same, bit less vibe though...

last bosch guys told me that rack pin is ok,but when I remove that silver piece you could not believe what kind of pin it was, just the opposite shape.

in the meantime my golden one arrived from States so I switch them ..
also I shim fuel return valve to proper length as it was 21mm.


ongoing saga I say


p.s when I ask them after those 30 days of fine work, did they change
delivery valves they responded NO, so I'm dropping those bosch guys
and will do some adjustments by myself... and some help from peach guys


.

You should investigate thoroughly whether your problem is not fuel contamination. For a smooth idle to degenerate into rough idling in the space of a month after a Re-Cal just about rules out the fuel pump as the problem - IF you have not been fiddling with the pump yourself.

Likewise the old damper bolt obviously was functioning properly then. It is a very simple and crude device that provides adjustable friction onto the rack bell-crank to damp out over-corrections of the idle control leaf spring. It only requires replacing if the plunger spring has weakened to the point that it does not have enough pressure to provide sufficient friction. Symptoms are anything from rapid to very slow regular surging at idle.

Leaking D-Valves cause a very regular rough idle, exactly like an out of Cal pump - no missing. They deteriorate very slowly over years rather than months - almost imperceptibly. Since they were fine a month ago you can rule them out.

However fuel contamination does fit the picture. Water or other fluids can accumulate slowly in the filter and the F/P low pressure chamber until the level reaches the ports of the metering elements. The rear cylinders are affected first due to inclination of the pump. Rough idling on climbs and smooth idling downhill are a clue to this.

The supply line to the pump must be removed to thoroughly flush the pump chamber. Just priming will never remove water etc. from the chamber.

If you give a detailed description of the symptoms we may be able to help.