Hi, New here, have wanted to put the om617 into a small 4x4 for a while now and finally got my chance. I have an 85 FJ60 Landcruiser and I have gotten the adapter kit from Luke at 4x4 Labs (nice kit).

I have the kit on, new clutch assembly, bell housing on and the motor hanging in the engine compartment.

Had some initial issues getting the bell housing to go back on the transmission, but eventually got all 4 bolts to thread and seat.

MY ISSUE IS: if we tighten down all the bolts between the transmission (Stock FJ60 4 speed manual) and the bell housing (Standard) We cannot turn the engine. Back the bolts off 1/4" and we can turn the engine over. What is missing?

Other issues at this point appear to be that I will need to modify my oil pan to clear the Differential, and my oil filter is hitting the firewall (3 lb sludge on the firewall should fix).

I think I even got all the electrical out of the donor car. may have more questions in a bit.

Hi,

Trying this and another post, need an answer.

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Today, 07:56 PM

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OM617 (82) into 85FJ60 - mounting issues
Hi, New here, have wanted to put the om617 into a small 4x4 for a while now and finally got my chance. I have an 85 FJ60 Landcruiser and I have gotten the adapter kit from Luke at 4x4 Labs (nice kit).

I have the kit on, new clutch assembly, bell housing on and the motor hanging in the engine compartment.

Had some initial issues getting the bell housing to go back on the transmission, but eventually got all 4 bolts to thread and seat.

MY ISSUE IS: if we tighten down all the bolts between the transmission (Stock FJ60 4 speed manual) and the bell housing (Standard) We cannot turn the engine. Back the bolts off 1/4" and we can turn the engine over. What is missing?

Other issues at this point appear to be that I will need to modify my oil pan to clear the Differential, and my oil filter is hitting the firewall (3 lb sludge on the firewall should fix).

I think I even got all the electrical out of the donor car. may have more questions in a bit.

Is there any way you can tell if the fasteners are bottoming out on something, keeping it from turning?

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Jim

In the adapter kit it states to reuse a metal washer on the flywheel that is about 1/16th thick (yes its Mercedes so it is actually some thousandths?) My plan is to use pieces of the metal from the other side and space between the bell housing and the transmission. If it works I am going to take it all apart and remove the metal washer. This should give me Just a bit of space, but the consensus (3-4 people so far) is that I am bottoming out the spline.

I do have a micrometer, but seems like a pain to pull it all apart if we can check to see if removing the washer on the fly wheel will help us.

Anyone feel free to weigh in on other thought too. How to get my new oil sump to clear my differential would be nice. I may need to fab a replacement, and I may just modify the pan, but then I need to drop the frame stops....

Wow this is interesting to learn, I really have never worked on my car before... and now all this.

I assume the transmission is in neutral. If so, how would bottoming out the spline make a difference? Aren't the crank and input shaft turning as one unit? Does the input shaft on the transmission turn easily without the engine attached? Are you sure the transmission is not in gear?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Not in gear. everyone asks - "You can double check if you like" Reasonable question though. If the shaft bottoms out it would probably create a friction lock. the 1/16th additional room may make all the difference.

I will probably start posting pictures if we get this resolved and keep moving.

Has to be either a bolt going in against something or the spacing wrong jamming the shafts against one another such that it creates side ways friction in either or both the motor and transmission. This assumes your adaptors do line everything up of course.

Take the front oil pan off and you will see the oil pump on the front of the OM617. The stock motor in your FJ probably has the oil pump on the rear of the motor. The front sump is usually in conflict with the differential on a front solid axle 4wd when repowering with an OM617. You can cut and weld on the front metal oil pan to gain a few inches of clearance especially if your differential is off set of center enough. I have seen where someone cut the intake off of the oil pump that faces forward and welded it back on to the pump facing backward. Google it as there are lots of builds out there using an OM617 repower.

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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.

Well, obviously we hope for the easy way. This is not going to be the case. Luke got back in touch with me and said that on one of his early GMC projects he had this happen. Probably is contacting the pilot bearing and I will need to take it all out and look at it. So --- time to disassemble and check where it is butting together.

His response has been great. Offered to modify the aluminum adapter so the pilot bearing sat deeper. I would definitely recommend 4×4 Labs for any om617 to Toyota or gmc product. If I like this one though, the next one looks like a Jeep 6 speed manual transmission.

Ok- Will have more in a few days, perhaps a pic.

I think the same thing happened to me when I swapped a automatic for a manual transmission in my 240D. Even though I knew better, somehow I put the clutch disc in backwards. I was lucky I didn't damage anything. If you have to take out the transmission anyway, you should check to see that you didn't make the same mistake I made. Good Luck

Ok, Wasted today, waiting for a machine shop to be open, but pulled engine back out on Friday, pulled off bell housing, pulled out clutch, etc etc and found the crushed aluminum in the adapter bushing. Fortunatly the pilot bearing is ok. I think it looks like 1/8 or 3/16ths crushed so I am going to mill out 1/4". See pic

Now I did spend some time reviewing what I have to do after we bolt it up, weld in the new Motor mounts (the attachment to the frame) and bash in the firewall just a bit more for the oil filter - any good ideas on how to relocate this? DO I have to fab a plate to go on the engine or does it just look dangerous back there?

After engine on I need to modify the linkage to be a cable throttle, I think we have a good solution which will involve U channel bolted to the linkage location that ties to the Cruise control (Seeing as how I am going to abandon the cruise in favor of a throttle lock.

Sensors -
-Speed - toyota and still attached
-Fuel - still in tank, but need to drop and empty remainder of gas -2-3 gal. ALso need to pull filler neck and tap out for Diesel fill spout (Note: I do not believe I have an in tank fuel pump on the 85 FJ60. There is a return line, so I am not planning any other exploratory surgery in the tank.)
- Battery- will hook up to mounting block from the om617 that I am moving over.
- Coolant - I believe this is straight forward, though one post I read said I would need to drill and tap in the sensor from the 2F motor.
- Oil Pressure - I believe I can get an adapter for the oil sensor from the 2F motor (anyone know what I need here?) and seat it into the tube from the Merc (Need to find the oil tube still).
- Tach - Currently I do not have a solution. I have the wiring from the om617, but no idea how to get it to work on the FJ60. Thoughts? Can I replace the factory FJ60 tach in the dash with one of similar size? Should I use that as a Turbo boost or exhaust temp cluster? Ideas please

I am sure there is more, like fixing the stereo. and Oh how I wish I had an H55F trans instead of this 4 speed, but too much $$$.

Keep smiling ask on pics if you need.

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Before bolting the motor to trans, measure crankshaft end play. Bolt it together then measure end play again, it should be the same. This is to assure that binding still does not exist. Any preload of the crank will result in a failed thrust bearing.


Was the original motor FI or carb? If carb, was there a fuel pump on the motor?

On the tank you will need to locate the fuel supply , vapor vent and if it has one the return. The return should discharge near the bottom of the tank, this prevents aerating the fuel but keep it away from the pickup so any bubbles are not picked up.

It would be a good idea to remove the sender to fully drain the tank , ID lines and check / replace the fuel pickup sock.

FS: Custom Billet oil filter relocation plates.

This is no longer sold but it looks like an easy fab

Ok,

Today we put the bell housing back on, the clutch, fly wheel etc. Then we beat on the firewall a bit, and since it was 100F today we took a break. Then we were able to get it all bolted together, a bit of shoving and raising etc and it is in, turns over and we can shift. (working on it jammed the shifter into gear while we were bolting it all together.

We are going to put 2 plates on one side of the transmission and kick the motor and the transmission to the side which will afford us a bit more clearance all the way around and perhaps help with the oil pan issue.

Have other things tomorrow, but, hoping to mount it to the frame Monday and get on with the electrical.

We also decided we needed a cable for the throttle and made a plate to hold the cable.

There is some play in the turbo. Any thoughts? Maybe good for 20k? I want to see how this swap works out then I will work on minor issues etc.

Talk on Monday.

One of our Member posted the below pic.

However, I think that with out some sort of check Valve or Valves if the Vehicle sits a long time the Oil is going to drain out of the Hoses and the Filter Housing leaving a lot of space that has to be filled up to before Oil Pressure reaches the Bearings when starting the Engine.

If Check Valves are installed when the Oil is changed dirty Oil is going to be trapped in the Hoses and Filters.

I do not know what sized Fittings were used but the ID of the fittings needs to be at least the same size and better a little larger than the Holes in the Block.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

FJ is driving and after tuning the IP does decent. - ran into an issue that the IP seems to be clogged or shot. any suggestions? - Rebuild? Replace? Also, need a turbo for my wagon as it sticks in the morning and in low gear.