Hi Guys. Been a long time away, but I still am driving the Old Diesel. An 81 300SD.
My question is I have water (when it is raining) that pours into the trunk from under the rear window.
Seems I recall something about sunroof drains getting plugged?
Any ideas?

From my understanding, water getting into the trunk under the rear windshield is due to the windshield seal leaking. Mine did this initially and I was able to renew the seal with an abundance of silicone lubricant (gel not the spray) using a plastic pry bar and an acid brush.

Many threads here, talk about having to replace the seal because it was severely damaged and cracking. Hopefully, this is not the case as most windshield companies will not guarantee against breakage when removing for replacement of the seal. If you have the laminated heating element, that windshield is ~$700-$800.

I haven't had the issue but I believe problems with the sunroof drains causes water entry around the hinge areas. Someone correct me on this, if needed.

Try the silicone lube first and see if it resolves the issue.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

If you have water leaking in, I betcha you have rust under the seal.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I had water leaking in and I had rust under the seal, and rust holes behind the seal where water would go straight in. I used JB weld and a window screen and plugged those holes up and the leaks were drastically reduced, but still present. I am now going to use silicone on the seal, thanks for the heads up!

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1984 300sd auto with 246,000 miles

A strong, willing and careful partner is required. Step 1: Remove the upper C pillar panels to remove the heated rear window contacts. (you need both sides removed to aid installation) Step 2) One can remove the rear window carefully by cutting the old weather seal carefully. This can be done from the inside as well as the outside of the car. Remove the chrome trim very carefully as it needs to be placed back in the next weather seal as an integral part of the locking assembly. Don't bend any of the Chrome! Usually the weather seal is as hard as a rock and it takes a steady and careful hand to remove the glass. Then you place the glass (outside of glass) on a blanket on the roof. Step 3) Next you aggressively scrape the old hardened rubber from the flange and repair it if necessary. Step 4) Clean any rubber or other residue from the glass carefully!

Installation is tricky but easily possible with a strong and careful partner. (Setting the glass on a blanket on the trunk - outside of glass down) Step 1) Install the rubber to the glass (after you have cleaned the glass perimeter inside and outside edge with a solvent - Caution should be used NOT to get any solvent on the heated rear window grid.). Step 2) Install a rope (1/8" nylon rope is good) around the inner perimeter channel seal of the rubber. Overlap the rope about 1/2 way on the bottom side of the window seal. Leave about 2 ft of rope hanging out of the channel on each side. Step 3) Flip the glass so the outside of the glass is up. Install the chrome trim to the rubber which is on the glass. Step 4) Use liquid soap as a lubricant as it will wash away and leave no residue. Liberally Soap the flange and the rubber before you insert it into the opening. (Caution: soap makes the glass assembly slippery) Step 5) With an assistant place the assembled glass / weather seal / chrome trim / rope assembly in the cleaned window opening and press inward... carefully. Make sure the rope ends are inside the car. Step 6) One person goes inside and obtains the rope ends and wraps them around their hands (several times). (Opposite side rope in opposite side hand... right side rope in left hand, left side rope in right hand) Step 7) With the outside person pushing inward, the inside person pulls the rope toward themself... Both sides at the same time crossing your hands / arms. This will pull the seal over the inside lip of the window opening. Then after you have it started you pull one side and then the other until you have all of the rope extracted from the top of the window (center) and the rubber over the flange.

Note: You might have to remove the assembly and reinstall the rope and chrome and do it multiple times before the process is complete. Your partner should press in the corners and sides while you are pulling the rope to help make sure the window assembly pops in place.

Step 8) Take a dull hook tool and go around the finished seal from the inside to ensure that it is over (inside) the window channel lip. Step 9) Reinstall heated window wires and the C post panels.

Note: Make sure you have the proper weatherseal for the car. A W126 seal is too big for a W123 and so forth. There is no need to remove the package tray or the headliner for the rear window weatherseal replacement.

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Pete Williams, President emeritus - MBCA-International Stars (Eastern Mich.) Now Wi. & Az.
1985 300D Manual 4 speed Green Hen's tooth
1979 MGB triple black Az car nice
1969 back 1/2 of MGB (Az home built trailer)
1991 Volvo 245 Wagon Nice AZ Restored Gold Brick
1983 Jeep CJ7 37,600 Miles Summer use only