OM617 into '83 240 *AUTOMATIC*
 

Hi folks. I did some research on this swap but did not find the exact info I was seeking.

I'm doing a low-buck transfer of my healthy OM617 into a decent-bodied 240 in a few weeks. Actually, I'm paying somebody to help out and want to have all my i's dotted and t's crossed as much as possible.

I plan to keep the automatic transmission *for now*.

Here's what I understand is necessary for the correct fit:
1. different coolant hose/location
2. rad and oil cooler from 300D
3. ???

I'm assuming perhaps incorrectly that I don't need to worry about the lengths of the driveshafts if we swap the entire driveline from the 300 to the 240.

Do I want to keep the 240 diff or swap the diff from the 300?

Thanks for any input. I plan to do a 4speed manual swap *later* when time and money permit, but not right now so thank you for not taking this thread off track :)

Cheers,
JD

It sounds like you have the 300D sitting next to the 240D - is that correct?

I'm not 100% sure about the prop shaft lengths - there might be a difference as from the pictures I've seen 240D engines seem to sit a little further forward...

...I'll see what I can find out about that. There was a prop shaft thread over on BenzWorld but I don't know how far that one has developed.

Engine mount brackets will be different for the 300D so keep them.

I think you're going to need different engine shock mounts.

The 300D turbo exhaust has a larger diameter.

I would most certainly change the differential. And I would keep the transmission with the 300D and remove the 240D one as the shift points will be matched to the differential...

That's all I can think of for now - I'll be back with prop shaft data.

Here are two threads showing drive shaft / prop shaft data

Gearbox comparison & drive shaft lenghts & colour codes - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/290722-driveshaft-length-table.html#post2911494

LutzTD has measured the 240D prop shaft to be longer

Driveshafts
 

Army: here is what I found. I know to do the manual tranny swap the front shaft has to be shortened 4" so the following makes sense to me:

"@123 chassis 240d automatic has a 19.5 inch front drive shaft and the 300d automatic has a 15.5 inch drive shaft to accommodate for the 4 extra inches from the additional 5th cylinder."

Or perhaps that should have read 13.375 inches and 17.375 inches; either way, it's a difference of 4 inches.

I was/am assuming that everything will 'bolt up'. Hopefully it will help that I have both complete cars sitting there with their associated parts. The only 'broken' part on the 240 is the motor, so best case scenario is that everything else can be salvaged as needed.

The one item I am concerned about is the hose that goes from the engine block to the heater core [?]. Apparently the OM616's hose goes from rear whereas the 617's goes from the side as there is not enough room between the firewall and the rear of the motor. Can anyone confirm this?

I also think that the differential can be removed from the 300D without lowering the subframe. If the axles remain attached to the differential, this could be done as they just 'pull out' from the control arms...at least this was my experience when I removed the subframe earlier this year.

I know there are other ancillary items that will need to be swapped or that I would like to swap [cluster w/tach, boost/temp gauge, etc.] but I'm primarily concerned with being prepared for the 'operation' by the 15th of October or before.

Thanks again everybody!

I sort of remember some of the info from distant memory (considered what you are about to do, once) but I found this:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/325014-converting-240d-300d-turbo.html

Which will be more accurate than my memory....

On the heater hose: you may be right about where the hose connects to the OM616 block, but as far as I remember the hose on both cars runs to the same place on the firewall, so you'll just need good OM617 hose. Is that what you meant?

The first question I have is do you have everything you need between the 240D and 300D? I would think so but I'm far from knowledgeable. If so, it's just time and grunt and maybe a drill. I'd move the entire hidden side of the 300D to the 240D as assemblies to save time and energy - engine and tranny with oil cooler, prop shaft, rear subframe, exhaust... Sort out the wiring and heater plumbing as you go along. There are enough Euro 300Ds out there that you should find guidance on how to hook up the heater hoses.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks Zacharias. Yeah, that's what I was referencing. My understanding is that the hose is a different shape and there could be 'attachment issues' [not in the psychological manner of speaking lol].

Thanks Sixto. What is special about the Euro? I'm assuming it has the heater hose connected in a different spot? :anxious:

Most Euro 300Ds have manual AC like the 240D.

Sixto
87 300D

Ah! Makes sense. And perhaps I'll have warm air to my feet as well rather than just to the defrost!

If you want pictures I got pictures!

These are of my European 1981 300D non turbo (no A/C - no electric windows - no comfort!)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...onnet-gone.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...se-removal.jpg

There are more pictures here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/289886-how-i-took-out-my-1981-w123-300d-euro-non-turbo-engine.html

and here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/detailing-interior/286358-w123-engine-bay-paint-advice-reqd.html

Indy Benz you have a lot of work to do before that hose problem becomes an issue. But to make it easy, remove the hose nipple complete with the threaded part from the back of the 240D head (yes it is all one piece). Do that before you pull the engine because it takes a good pull with a big wrench, maybe 24mm, and it is tied down and easy to do from that position. On the 617 engined cars that use that heater system, the threaded fitting then goes into threaded hole of the #2 cylinder on the IP side of the head. Some of the holes have sensors in them, (all the cylinders have a threaded hole into their corresponding section of the head - the factory uses that hole do get the sand out after casting the head). Sorry, but I can't find the part number for the hose right now, but if you have good eyes you can probably read it from the tape on the hose on my car which has the factory part number on it.

Then that new hose runs from the plug now installed by cylinder #2, runs kind of in that valley behind the IP and ties into the system at the heater controls (under the hood) at the same place "Army" has the hose removed in his last picture, the hose with the tape on it. It is pretty simple, just get that outlet changed over to #2 cylinder area.

Thanks Jim! I wondered if you'd chime in here. I'm having our mutual friend Mr. Newnam do the swap as I just don't have the time.

Jim, I don`t remembering a hose for the heater coming off the #2 cylinder area for the 617 engine. I have an 85 617.952, and there is a hose for the heater core on the left side that connects to the fitting between #4 and #5 injector on the side of the block. the little short hose kind of in back and curls up by the oil filter lid.

Looked up the part, think it is this one. 123 832 84 94

1983 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan - Heater System - Page 1

If you have a hose from #2 cyl running behind the IP, wouldn`t there be interference with the linkage behind the pump?

Indybenz, the 617 eng should already have the fitting for the hose in the block.
there is a plug on the back side of the 617 block where a hose fitting could be used like where the 616 connects to. but with the 5th cyl, the eng sits too close to the firewall.

Charlie