I know for a fact that the delivery valve seals on the newly-acquired 1987 300TD need to be replaced, so that's one of the first things I'm doing. I noticed a mildly rough idle and a bit of nailing under mild load. Is it possible that these are symptoms of the bad delivery valve seals?

Thanks.

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Yes.

Sixto
87 300D

Excellent....I'll hope for the best.

I am getting ready to do mine also. Looks like they can be done with the intake in place.

Is leaking the only way you know they are bad or can they be bad and not leak?

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Brian
87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017
02 F350 Powerstroke 180K
05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K
08 Infiniti FX-35 40K
15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K
10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K

Oh, and I'm also getting white smoke out of the exhaust. Is this symptom also consistent with bad delivery valve seals?

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

[QUOTE=shertex;3029141]Oh, and I'm also getting white smoke out of the exhaust. Is this symptom also consistent with bad delivery valve seals?[/QUOTE

I think it is a good possibility. For the time it takes I might take a small mirror or piece of glass and hold it in the exhaust stream for a short time. If condensate forms on the surface it might be coolant .

In your case though logically to me would be the more likely senario that bad delivery valve seals causing issues in the original intended fuel delivery timing.

For what it is worth check the upper coolant hose after the car sits overnight to see if it is soft like it should be or still under pressure. Kind of goes with that generation of engines to do that periodically in my opinion. For the time taken it just assures you that it is most likely the seals if the coolant hose pressure is not retained.

Pressure does not build up in hose....so things still looking good for delivery valve seals being the explanation for the car's woes.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Delivery valves are finished and I am happy to report I can no longer feel the slight roughness there used to be at idle, in gear with the AC on. My engine does clatter a idle but quiets up immediately on any accelleration, no nailing whatsoever.

15 years ago when I first bought the car I let a shop reseal the delivery valves. From the time they had it and what they charged I doubt they removed the intake, so I don't see how they could have properly torqued them.

One thing I can recommend after you get everything CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN is to cap each valve immediately with a plastic vaccuum cap (that you have rinsed and dried) until you are ready to put the fuel line back on. I capped all mine as well as the injectors, and before putting the lines back on I rinsed each injector with brake cleaner and flushed each line, followed by compressed air.

Don't use old rubber caps that could flake off pieces.

__________________
Brian
87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017
02 F350 Powerstroke 180K
05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K
08 Infiniti FX-35 40K
15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K
10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K