Hi there, i was just wondering if anyone could give a quick run down about removing the tie rods on my w123. Ive removed the nuts (im replacing my steering box) connecting the tie rods to the pitman arm, but then they seem totally stuck.

They are fairly new as well and I dont think its rust. Im just wondering before I break something, is there something else to this that IM missing? I see the threaded bolt has a hex depression in it so it made me wonder, do you have to unscrew the bolt part of the tie rod in order to separate it off the pitman arm?
Thanks for any quick replies.

Many chain parts stores will lend a tie rod puller for no charge.

The internal hex is for installing the TRE, not removing.

No. The tie rod end pin is tapered; being "stuck" is perfectly normal.

Do NOT use a pickle fork is you are going to reinstall the original TRE's. Use a puller.

I see, Ill keep working at it. I guess nobody said it would be easy. Straightforward it its though..

Tie rods are supposed to be that tight. You need the proper tools. If you've never done it before, and didn't know that, please find a DIY, book, friend who's done it, or all three.

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Remember, Safety Third!
'99 E300 Turbodiesel, '82 300TD, 1996 12V Cummins Turbo, '94 Neoplan - Detroit 6V92TA

tools of choice in descending order of being easy and also expense

MB separator
2 legged puller
bolt loaded clothes pin type breaker
pickle fork - will ruin rubber boots
3 or 4 lb hammer and room to swing.

on the forum the last 1 is used by 99% of people

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Or a combination. Get a tie rod end separator tightly in place then swing the hammer against the pitman arm in the transverse direction to the pin. Keep the nut loosely on the pin to contain the results.

Sixto
87 300D

Also use a torque wrench during assembly. If the nuts are over torqued ( very easy to do ) it will be massively difficult to take apart the next time.

If you are doing, or planning to, more work on the front end, this style of tie rod separator is worth the price:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_WTD182_pg61.htm

It makes separating the joint easy and doesn't damage the rubber boot.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Here is the DIY I put together:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/295583-w123-tie-drag-rods-idler-arm-rebuild-diy.html

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

and if you need it locally, any harbor freight has a cheapo version of this tool that'll work for a few tie rods before it gives out...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Pics of Tie Rod Separators.

The Shiny one is a free Rental at Autozone or similar places.

I bought both for around $17 each. Harbor Freight sells the dark colored one.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I bought the HF tool Diesel911 mentions, works good.

3/4" Forged Ball Point Joint Separator

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Yep, nothing like HF garbage - not only does that store steal US jobs, but they sell garbage too:



I got mixed info on the OTC set that I bought - I was told initially that it was US made. It wasnt, only some parts were US made. Still, it was far better quality than that HF garbage.

I got the OTC 6295 Front End Service Set, which was pricier but has a lot of different items to get the job done. I figure Im likely to do these kinds of jobs a few times in the future, and it likely has already paid for itself. Based upon the suspension geometry on the w123, I found having two varieties were better/more helpful.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

also concerning the HF junk tool, it will not fit on the ball joint to pop the spindle free... too thin an opening.

I have the Peachparts tool, and it's awesome. I also have the HF tool... it's popped some tie rods free, but beware of it's ffrailties... the autozone tool is nearly useless on any 123 bolts, no room to swing the bolt, and the opening is too wide...

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!