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#1
11-09-2012, 10:31 AM
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check valve internal gone
I have a 1984 300d with around 315k miles.
I lost vacuum yesterday. I pulled the metal vacuum pump check valve and it was hollow. A clear open path to the vacuum pump. All of the internals must have deteriorated and then sucked into the vacuum pump. It looks like I can remove the vacuum pump from the block with allen bolts or remove the front plate which is attached with phillip head screws. That parts are probably jamming up the piston in the vacuum pump. I put a new check valve in but still very little if any vacuum. Any thoughts? Thx pete 
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#2
11-09-2012, 12:20 PM
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the pieces are too big to fall into the pump. they usually end up in that upper elbow piece where the vacuum hose screws on to. you can get something to fish them out of there.
__________________
1981 NA 300D 310k miles
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#3
11-09-2012, 02:08 PM
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I didn't see anything when I looked into the hole. Maybe I'll fish a small magnet down there. I also have a mityvac pump that I use to do my brakes. I could fish the black tube down while squeezing the handle.
Thx pete
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#4
11-09-2012, 02:13 PM
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To be on the safe side I'd remove the vacuum pump and make sure nothing is trapped in there. You must have heard / read about the OM617 and its vacuum pump problems before right? (meaning how if it goes it sheds junk into the timing chain and ruins the engine)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#6
11-09-2012, 02:26 PM
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Not the screws that hold the cover plate on the pump itself - remove the whole pump from the engine => that should be the allen / hex head screws / bolts that go into the block.
This is making "extra work" but I for one would like to know for sure that nothing is in there - may be you want to wait for the advice of others? Do a poll? Have you seen Beagle's replace your vacuum pump bearings thread before?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#8
11-09-2012, 03:13 PM
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Well arguably it isn't - but for the age of the parts it is something that I think we should all consider (at the very least). Do you need a link to the thread?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#10
11-09-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
That's because the old check valve parts are obstructing the inlet. Quote:
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#11
11-10-2012, 02:34 AM
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I think I need to clarify the advice I gave above - I've not been clear - I'm a bit concerned about the little vacuum that is now being produced than I am about the missing check valve.
Because I'm super cautious I would remove the pump and check it out. But as I said above it is making "extra work" that perhaps is not necessary. I understand completely that what I would do isn't necessarily what others might. I tried to give fair warning - looking back perhaps I wasn't clear enough.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#12
11-10-2012, 05:48 AM
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And I forgot to mention something else!
My experience of removing the cover on the front of the OM617 vacuum pump has not been a good one. In my case the screws were corroded into place and needed to be drilled out. Bear this in mind if you try to remove the cover with the pump in-situ => you could make more work for yourself if like mine the screws are corroded into place. I think it is easier to drill out screws on the cover of the pump with the pump removed.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#13
11-10-2012, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
If three pieces (spring, plunger and retainer plate) can be retrieved with the pump in place, there should be no need to remove and/or further disassemble the pump.
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