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#1
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Well done!
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83 SD 84 CD |
#2
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Must say that is neat mod.
The gauge I bought is still in box because I didn't like any of the mounting options.
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Graham 85 300D ![]() |
#3
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Okay, pgringo I see what you meant. I dropped a reply on that thread linking to here.
I used a Dell 8115cn MP Laser. It really needs to be laser imho to get the dark results you want , and you'll want to use the darkest/heaviest setting for printing. I personally have not used the matte plastic facings and don't own a laser printer, so I can't really speak to that. I have seen some photos though of what I believe are what you're talking about. They looked great. Another technique one could use if you dislike the paper approach, would be to heat-transfer the toner to a piece of plastic or metal. My original idea was to do this, but I was hesitant to use the backside of the original gauge or find a suitable replacement surface until I knew I would be pleased with this test run. I've been considering redoing the gauge, this time with heat transfer of laser toner. If you want to heat transfer a laser printed mask, you can do it like so. Print your mask in mirror image, then secure it face down onto the surface where you want it so that it won't move. This technique works best with metal surfaces I've found, as they withstand the heat without deforming or otherwise becoming damaged. Apply a hot clothing iron with smooth even pressure, moving slowly and making multiple passes. (careful not to burn the paper too much). You may have to do the whole procedure multiple times to get full coverage and may still end up touching up spots, but it would be more lasting than the paper/adhesive approach which is likely to suffer from sunlight damage and oxidation, etc. Perhaps this weekend if I get time I will take apart the left side of a spare cluster I have here and post the dimensions one would have to workw ith if you wanted it at the bottom center position. One consideration would be that most gauges will run clockwise, and that you may find that counter-intuitive for this bottom arc. There are numerous hobby shops online however where you can find small gears and pinions to both change the direction and differential of your metrics. That's just a little too much work for me, personally. After going through multiple odometers and speedometer problems, I like getting in and out of any "clockwork" mechanisms as soon as possible. Oh, and I think someone asked what my boost output is. I'm sitting on 10.5psi peak, but I haven't opened up the wastegate yet to at least bring it back to the 14.7 or so I really should be getting. I have several friends who own 300's as well, and based on anecdotes from them, and given that I want to keep this particular vehicle (85 300TD) as a daily driver for as long as possible, I'll probably not go past 18psi if I'm able to get even that. I'm told the extra stress considerable overboost places on the injection pump can very dramatically affect its lifespan. Even at that psi, I get a 0-60 of about 15 seconds in the wagon. I think fine tuning the ALDA and shift timing have done way more for my cars' performance than increasing the boost ever did (I realized a 4psi boost by cleaning the turbo banjo fitting, and cleaning/replacing lines to the ALDA). However, I'm enthusiastic about what results I'll get at a 15+ psi boost.
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1985 300TD 310k 1985 300D 315k 1984 300D 220k (parts car) |
#4
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Can you steal the "p" , "s" and the "i" from the speedo face to the GIMP file? I guess it would mean disassembling a VDO gauge but i bet there is one at the junk yard.
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#5
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Such a good mod. But, I have my 107 in bits and the 123 is running fine with unknown boost.
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Graham 85 300D ![]() |
#6
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Outstanding! That looks absolutely amazing. That's how it should have came from the factory...
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
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