Hello all. I replaced 4 of the 5 glowplugs but still have a very hard time starting the car in cold weather. Would the one " not changed " glow plug make a difference? The relay looks fine but I have a replacement that I will try tomorrow. The battery was new last year but is worn from having to crank, sometimes for minutes, before it will start. I have had the car plugged in for the past 4 hrs and am trying to jump it with my 7.3 diesel but it just cranks fast for a few seconds and then slows down. It seems to me it has to be the relay but I thought I would check here for other suggestions. Also, how long does it take the heater to warm up the engine enough to start it in cold weather? I wonder if I need a new block heater as well? Thanks. Oh yeah, it is my wife's car and she said that lately she has noticed it bogging down ( not enough power ) going up hills ( wot ) when the engine is cold. Maybe fuel filter? I need to learn more about this car. I also need a garage.

__________________
96 F350 CC, LB, 4x4. 290,000 with around 90,000 on wvo.

82 Mercedes 300d. New to me. 211,000 soon to be on wvo.

A few things:

1. Posting where you are and how cold it actually is, wouldn't hurt, in evaluating no-start problems (some areas are experiencing extreme temps). Also it would be helpful to know if the car starts okay down to a certain temperature.

2. You say the relay "looks okay". Is the glow light coming on on the dashboard? How many glow cycles do you do, before you try to start it?

3. I am guessing you didn't change the rearmost glowplug, as it is the most difficult. That alone should not produce a no-start problem.

4. Have the valves been adjusted recently? Correct valve adjustment is critical on these cars, for cold weather starts.

5. When you plug in the block heater, you should be able to hear a sizzling or crackling sound with 10 seconds as it starts to work. If you can't hear that, the heater probably needs to be replaced.

6. What oil is in the crankcase? If you are in an area experiencing severe cold, synthetic oil allows the motor to turn over much faster.

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Have you checked out the glow plug electrics? Are the plugs getting 12 volts with the key in the glow position? Yes, one bad plug can stop the engine from starting in cold weather.
You can check the function of the block heater with a non-contact thermometer. You should be able to detect a warm block compared to the surrounding metal. Also, the temperature gauge should show warmth if the block heater has been on for more than a couple of hourse when you turn the key on.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I am in Northwest Michigan. It has been pretty cold lately ( 0 - 30ish ) but the symptoms started last winter and have gotten worse. I replaced all the glow plugs this fall ( with the exception of the rear most ) In the summer the starts were just okay and the car would vibrate a lot at idle. Before I changed the glowplugs, I did notice that the light was acting strange, sometimes on, sometimes no. Since I changed them, I comes on every cycle, for about 8 seconds. I picked up the car last year on trade and haven't had much time to get to know her. With 225000 and no known history, I would bet the valves need to be adjusted. I will listen for the crackle of the heater or maybe just feel the block when I go out next to try and start it. I have been using a 15/40 oil ( same as my truck ) either valvoline or rotella.


Thanks for the help. I got the car at 212000 last year and picked up a doner that I have used only for the alternator and calipers so far, I think. I love the car. I drove it down state for thanksgiving and got about 25mpg while doing 80ish. It has it quirks, but I just need to spend more time learning about it. I will post back after some more tests.

__________________
96 F350 CC, LB, 4x4. 290,000 with around 90,000 on wvo.

82 Mercedes 300d. New to me. 211,000 soon to be on wvo.

List of things I would do.

Valve adjustment
Fuel filters and primer pump(if old style)
Replace ALL glow plugs with Bosch plugs
Check battery cables
Have battery tested
Replace oil with synthetic
Replace starter motor

Your going to find out that the car has not seen normal maintenance for 20+ years and the no start problem is a combination of other neglected items. My no start problem was a combination of a weak starter, glow plugs and battery cables.

__________________

Not sure exactly why one bad glow plug will create a no start condition in cold weather but I've had it happen 3 times.
Waiting for the 8 seconds until the light goes out is inadequate in cold weather. The plugs keep glowing after the light is out. You should wait at least 20 seconds.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

After 6 hrs of being plugged in, and while being " jumped " by a healthy 7.3, still nothing. I could let the glow plugs cycle for 10 or 20 or many cycles and it makes no differance. I think I need a relay and a battery for starts. There is about a foot of snow around the car that I would like to plow. In the morning, I think I will just pull it to a new spot until I can swap the relay. Would a good relay/plugs allow a cold start even if the block heater didn't work? To what temp? I am sure there are other varibales involved but I am done for the night. Thank you again for the help.

__________________
96 F350 CC, LB, 4x4. 290,000 with around 90,000 on wvo.

82 Mercedes 300d. New to me. 211,000 soon to be on wvo.

Have you confirmed that the relay is or isn't working? I wouldn't swap it out without some diagnostics. It could be simply a bad strip fuse.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I agree that it might be a bad strip fuse. Diesel Giant has a good write up on testing the glow plug system. Also, are you saying it cranks but will not start or is it not cranking? When you are jumping it are you only connecting to the battery or are you connecting the negative cable to the block?

__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles

You say in your SIG that you plan to put this car onto WVO... just to verify, you hadn't started running any vegoil through yet, right? If you have it changes some of the conversation.

From what you are saying, it sounds like it isn't even trying to start. Is that about it (doesn't try to fire at all)?

You have to look at the following:
- is it getting fuel?
- are the valves correctly adjusted?
- is the starter turning it fast enough?
- are the glowplugs heating?

You should be getting some puffs of whitish/greyish smoke out the tailpipe when you are cranking, and some odor of diesel. If you are, then at least you know fuel is present. If you aren't, try working the primer pump (and if you have a helper, ask them to pump it while you're cranking). If it feels like you're just pumping air (you should feel resistance when you pump, and hear a pfffft from the pressure release valve, after about 10 pumps if fuel is present) -- then you have a fuel gelling/freezing issue upstream. I had this happen this winter on my 300d, which usually starts like a champ in the cold.

If you are pumping air -- and assuming you have the newer-style black primer pump and not the old-style, white screw-in to lock type -- get hold of some Powerservice Diesel 911, dump some in and see if it helps. Change the fuel filters after you've let the 911 work. If the car still has the old style pump, change it. It may well be sucking in air.

Make sure all the clamps on the fuel lines are tight, including the very bottom one at the inlet to the lift pump (under the small filter).

Just to repeat what others said, check you have 12v on both sides of the strip fuse in the glow relay and at glowplugs. Make sure your battery posts and terminals are clean.

You ask if it will start without a block heater, that's a factor but not the critical one -- the valve adjustment is the biggest factor.

If you do doubt the block heater is working, put an incandescent trouble lamp or similar under the hood overnight. That generates a surprising amount of heat. You can also try a small fan space heater for a shorter time, maybe an hour, but if so don't leave it unattended.

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I have some doubts that your block heater is working. After being plugged in for a few hours, you shouldn't even need glow plugs to start. Do a quick continuity check on it, if it's open, you know it's bad.

I also highly doubt your glow plugs are working. My '83 doesn't have one and starts fine on one glow cycle in single digit temperatures with a battery that isn't the best (four years old including one full year sitting in storage going nearly dead).

From the description it sounds like the battery is also weak. Charge and load test. Then check for voltage at the glow plugs.

And adjust your valves. I'm starting to think a valve adjustment should go on the list of things to do right away when you get one of these cars, kind of like changing the oil and checking the brakes. Speaking of changing the oil, 5W40 synthetic flows a lot better than 15W40 in cold temperatures. It's what I use.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Thanks for the replies. No veg oil yet. I am not sure where the primer is. The block heater is definitely not working but I am pretty sure the glow plugs are. I noticed that when I cycle the glowplugs it puts a load on my truck ( used for jumpstarting ). Are there any write ups on valve adjustment and heater replacement? Thanks again

__________________
96 F350 CC, LB, 4x4. 290,000 with around 90,000 on wvo.

82 Mercedes 300d. New to me. 211,000 soon to be on wvo.

Hunter went through the trouble to organize the DIY Links.
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

first, I love the thread title:
Which of course means that it is starting.

Before we go any further, what has been done since yesterday?
Do you know when the last fuel filter change was? Were both replaced?
When was the last oil change?

To locate the primer pump, locate the hard fuel lines from the tank under the master cylinder. Note that these two lines are feed and return. The return line comes down from the top of the main filter. The other is the feed. This should have a hose attached that goes to a pre-filter with another hose to the lift pump.
If the lift pump has a white poker chip looking piece, that is the old style. If it looks like a black cap, this is the new pump.

I have the old style that you unscrew the white cap and then pull it out and use it as a pump. Do this to see what is going on with your fuel system. Also do this after changing your filters to prime the system.

If you are replacing filters, consider filling your main filter with injector cleaner or similar, then prime the system. Note the bolt on top of the main filter (22mm) has a crush washer. Replace it if you can, but not necessary. make sure it is clean and then make the bolt "good and tight".

another thing you can do is place a 250W halogen work lamp onto the hard injector lines with a drop cloth or similar over the engine to act as a blanket/insulator. Once the fuel lines are nice and warm the cylinder head may also be warm. This may take 2-4 hours.

In the coldest temps, the above heating trick has always gotten my benz to start. Note, your battery must be fully charged. All of this is a waste without a 100% fully charged battery. Test the voltage if you have to.

Best of luck.

__________________
85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
Ha, ha. I hadn't noticed the title. Might have been a bit tipsy when I posted. Other then determining that the car draws power when the glow plugs are being cycled and that the engine block heater is not working, I haven't had much time to do anything else. I will try the light and blankett idea. I will also change the filters. Last oil change was not long ago. I am sure a new battery will be needed. I am also sure that if I could get it to start, and run it until it is all warmed up, I could shut it off and start it right back up while still warm. I should have some time this week to get things sorted out. I'll post as I make progress. Thanks again.

__________________
96 F350 CC, LB, 4x4. 290,000 with around 90,000 on wvo.

82 Mercedes 300d. New to me. 211,000 soon to be on wvo.