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  #1  
Old 06-02-2013, 12:26 AM
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300D stop lever o-ring replacement now wont shut off

Hey Everyone!

I have a 92 300D, one of my techs at my shop attempted to replace the stop lever o-ring on my daily driver. I don't know exactly what he did but I assume he took out the shaft that lever attaches to to replace the o-ring.
Now the car wont shut off by key of the stop lever. Did he insert something wrong in there? How is that shaft supposed to go in.
Is it possibole to fix this problem without removing the IP.

PLEASE HELP

As always thanks in advance

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92 300D 2.5 TURBO
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2013, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD/WI View Post
Hey Everyone!

I have a 92 300D, one of my techs at my shop attempted to replace the stop lever o-ring on my daily driver. I don't know exactly what he did but I assume he took out the shaft that lever attaches to to replace the o-ring.
Now the car wont shut off by key of the stop lever. Did he insert something wrong in there? How is that shaft supposed to go in.
Is it possibole to fix this problem without removing the IP.

PLEASE HELP

As always thanks in advance
I think you will need to let the Tech sit down by the Computer and write what he did and post a Few Pics; since He or She is the only one who knows what was done
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2013, 01:05 AM
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I need to get this done, I think he removed the nut on the shaft. But I am trying to get any brain storms or ideas on getting this done. I don't have another reliable vehicle to drive so I between rock and hard place.
If he did take that shaft out what then?
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  #4  
Old 06-02-2013, 01:15 AM
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Ok got more clear info, he took off the hollow nut that that shaft goes through along with the shaft. Then took the O-ring off of that and tried to reinstall it with new o-ring.
I found a Generic pic on the instruction page. Looks like he went farther then he needed to. He took off the 17mm nut that goes around the lever shaft. After trying to re install nut and shaft....
Now when you press on the stop lever nothing happens.
Attached Thumbnails
300D stop lever o-ring replacement now wont shut off-step_5.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 06-02-2013, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD/WI View Post
I need to get this done, I think he removed the nut on the shaft. But I am trying to get any brain storms or ideas on getting this done. I don't have another reliable vehicle to drive so I between rock and hard place.
If he did take that shaft out what then?
I have not read of any one being inside of one of these later model Fuel Injection Pumps likely because if you mess one up it is hard to find another at the Junk Yard and expensive to replace it with a rebuilt one.

I am trying to find a pic on the Russian parts site but at this point I doubt if it is going to show the innards.

I used to work in a Fuel Injection Shop but that was long before these IPs were out from 1975-1980.
I worked on different types of Bosch Inline Pumps and what I can remember is that despite the fact that that Bushing has a Hex on it they used to be retained with an E-clip inside (and there was another fatter O-ring in a groove on the Bushing).
I have no way of knowing if they are still doing that.

Also some times that Bushing was cut inside so it acted as a stop; meaning the Bushing only went into one position.

I think while it is still the weekend you ought to face up to the reality that your Ride is not going to be ready and try to find or think of another way to get some transportation.

Over on the Superdiesel Forum they like to get inside the IPs and do things like delete the ADLA and see if they can boost power. So there is a chance there could be some pics over there.

I can't find a good diagram of the Fuel Injection pump or the Governor. In fact the Russian Site shows 2 different Governors.

If the Vacuum Shutoff is right above the Manual Shutoff you could remove that and that ought to give you a view in side and you can see how the Shaft functions against the Rack and the other parts
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2013, 12:15 AM
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Well problem appears to have been solved.
Although another may have created itself in the process.

The trick was to rotate the shaft the stop lever attaches to clockwise while tightening the hollow nut.

The lesson learned is that the shaft does not need to come out at all and the hollow nut does NOT NEED to be loosed to removed o-ring.

My new problem is that my turbo does seem to be activating anymore.
I thought I knocked loose a vacuum line but I gave everything a lookover and didn't see anything. The car is slower than my old 240D.
I mean no turbo is the only thing I can attribute the lack of power to.

I know the whole car is run off of vacuum but does anyone have any pointer on which lines to focus on more than other. I may start a different thread for this because its a different topic
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2013, 12:28 AM
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At least you are in a less expensive problem area.
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2013, 12:32 AM
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Yes!! Its a really nice clean car that I really enjoy driving. Just need to get this resolved. If anyone else has any other ideas on what would cause a severe lack of power, as well as where to look for causes of turbo issues I am open to suggestions

Thanks again
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2013, 11:15 AM
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1990-1993 300D 2.5L
Turbo issue

!- Make shore that vacuum is correctly connected from vacuum transducers to:
1- Check the flap valve and EGR valve.
2- Check the Turbo Westgate, turbo westgate should open and close same as EGR and flap valve. ( 80C temperature )
3- Check the vacuum transducers.. Y31/1 Y31/2 Y31/3
4- Check the Y30-switch over valve.
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  #10  
Old 06-03-2013, 11:40 AM
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5- Check Air Mas sensor, needs to open and close as needed same as EGR, flap valve and turbo wastgate.
6- Check air filter.
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  #11  
Old 11-15-2015, 10:19 PM
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Lightbulb Need more instruction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD/WI View Post
Well problem appears to have been solved.
Although another may have created itself in the process.

The trick was to rotate the shaft the stop lever attaches to clockwise while tightening the hollow nut.

The lesson learned is that the shaft does not need to come out at all and the hollow nut does NOT NEED to be loosed to removed o-ring.

My new problem is that my turbo does seem to be activating anymore.
I thought I knocked loose a vacuum line but I gave everything a lookover and didn't see anything. The car is slower than my old 240D.
I mean no turbo is the only thing I can attribute the lack of power to.

I know the whole car is run off of vacuum but does anyone have any pointer on which lines to focus on more than other. I may start a different thread for this because its a different topic

I did the same and now my engine won't shut off. No mater how many time I tried to install, it won't work. Please provide a better instruction - thanks. Do you meant to rotate the shut off shaft clockwise more. The shaft only turns few degrees. Also, I may broken something inside because I didn't take off the retainer clip while I was turning the 17mm nut. Anybody please help! If you have some picture and that will be great. I will send you coffee cards :-). Thank you! Francis

Last edited by blessingfamily101; 11-16-2015 at 12:12 AM.
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2015, 01:52 PM
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You have bent the shutoff linkage / tab inside the pump by attempting to remove the nut.

It might be repairable.

Remove the intake manifold, and ALDA, and shutoff vacuum actuator. With the actuator off you can see how the lever / linkage is supposed to engage and actuate the shutoff inside the pump. IF you didn't bend the tab on the inside of the shutoff lever-shaft enough to crack it, you might be able to re-engage this tab and bend it back straight so that it correctly moves the shutoff mechanism.

Be sure to look at the angle of the shutoff lever on the outside of the pump as you assess, the correct orientation of the inside tab should become apparent.

Good luck.
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  #13  
Old 12-25-2015, 09:44 PM
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Smile Babymog

I really appreciated the responses for my questions. Actually, I spent $600 to the local mechanic for changing out 5 new glow plugs and new shut off valve. Now my car is running! According to my mechanic, the shut off valve was just dead when I was messing around the 27mm nut to change out a new O-ring. There was no internal damaged inside the pump. Thank you for your time and efforts. May I send you a Starbuck coffee card if you provide me your e-mail address. Do not worry, this is not a scam . Thank you
Francis

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