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  #1  
Old 07-31-2013, 11:48 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: ottawa, ontario, canada
Posts: 256
Something I learned in the past, if your engine mounts are failed and engine shakes badly, fix the problem BEFORE you replace the mounts, or the entire car will shake with new mounts until they fail again, most likely caused by the injection pump. There are lots of factors involved with the shakes, valve adjustment, injection pump timing, fuel injector spray/pop, timing chain stretch, fuel delivery timing, rack damper bolt, lots you can read up on here at the forum to educate yourself but no point replacing mounts if it shakes, you will not like the result! A properly running diesel (especially a 4 cylinder) is smooth at idle, like a coffee cup on the valve cover and not spilling smooth-the mounts come into play at start up and shut down mostly, not while running.
To fix your broken hose you need vacuum hose or fuel injector return line hose in 3.5X2mm OR 3.2x1.9mm either size is fine, most euro shops keep it or buy a couple meters here. It works on the injectors and on the vacuum hoses when you need to connect to hard plastic lines or run new lines. You will use it often until the car is up and perfect. You will have to fix that leak in order for the transmission to shift properly/engine shut off/vacuum locks to work etc. A mity vac tester also really helps in the tool box for working on these systems. Be sure to be gentle when removing the old parts, there is a plastic nipple running into the hose you don't want to break, use dental picks or hooks to try and loosen it.
For oil find something thick that is less likely to burn off, like 15w40 or 20w50 since your in a warm place. For sure diesel rated oil but it needs only CC or CD rating, not CJ-4 (the first "C" rating is diesel). You might have to consult with oil companies website to find which ones have the old rating, it is so obsolete not that most conform but few list it. CJ-4 is not really great for older engines, it has fewer additives/low ash for diesel particulate filters, not a concern here!
You can always try a fuel system flush or tune up in can to see if it helps your shakes, nothing much lost in trying like Lubro Moly diesel tune. Is the fuel in the tank really old/sitting a long time? Does it have diesel fuel in it or something else? (you might be surprised what some people call fuel), after the tune up in a can try running off a known fuel supply and see what happens (a small jar with fresh fuel) with a feed and return so you see what is coming out-a key to the mystery sometimes.
They are simple beasts in a modern world, but diesels can be tricky at times and you need patience to sort through it, but well worth it!
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:29 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
Welcome.

On the oil canister housing there is a stem with a couple of "O" rings, replace 'em if they are hard.

No rack damper bolt on non turbo cars.

Use diesel rated oil as mentioned. I use Rottela T6, full synthetic, I find it is better than straight dino.

Model 123 Maintenance Manual Index

Click on the OM616 button.

We like pics.
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New to working on cars - any advice welcome, lots of question - 1982 240d automatic-screen-shot-2013-07-31-11.23.58-am.jpg  
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
Welcome.

On the oil canister housing there is a stem with a couple of "O" rings, replace 'em if they are hard.

No rack damper bolt on non turbo cars.

Use diesel rated oil as mentioned. I use Rottela T6, full synthetic, I find it is better than straight dino.

Model 123 Maintenance Manual Index

Click on the OM616 button.

We like pics.
Auto zone sells a small box of metric "O" rings for about $8. there are plenty for quite a few oil changes. they don`t have to be changed at every oil change, only when they start getting hard and not rubbery.

Be sure to remove the large "O" ring on the lid and install the new one that usually comes with every filter. read where someone left the old one on and added the new one. had a good leak.

Do not over tighten the 2 lid nuts, just snug them down. the steel studs the nuts screw onto are screwed into aluminum, there are threads here where they have been over tightened and they stripped out, or let go and had a oil leak while driving.

Have fun with your new baby. the 240 is a simple car to own, the most complicated thing on yours is the auto trans, and electric windows if your has them, some 82`s have them and some don`t.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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