I discovered tonight that the windshield seal in my 220D is leaking. A lot. Over by the passenger side at the bottom of the pillar.

I've never done a windshield seal in anything like a Benz before. The only one I've done was in an off road VW Bug which was getting a lexan windshield so there was zero risk of stress cracking it. That was in 1997.

So, is there anyone in the very greater NYC area willing to lend a hand and some guidance in replacing the seal? I already have the front and rear seals ready to be put in but I'm just very leery about trying it out on my only car just a week before I have to use it to drive 2000 miles to New Mexico.

Thanks all!

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

I can't help with the Seal issue but wanted to say that there is often rust Holes through the Metal under the Rubber; or simply Rust that needs to be treated.

Also if the construction is similar to the later models I had rust holes through the Pockets that the Hood Springs retracted into and they allowed water to leak inside.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If the window seal is leaking, it's likely there is rust underneath, and that will take another day or 2 extra to fix which may postpone your trip. Water can come in from elsewhere as D911 pointed out. To isolate if it is the window seal, take a bath towel and stuff it tight in the space between the dash and the window seal, get it below the seal if you can, then wait for it to rain or use a hose to simulate rain for (1/2 hour?). If the towel is dry, it's not leaking at the seal. If it is wet, try plumbers putty (under $2 for a small tub from Home Depot- won't dry or harden) to spot treat (between glass to seal and seal to frame) and see if the leak can be stopped till you get out to New Mexico?

I am not familiar with the 220. Are the window seals the same as W123 with the aluminum trims? From what I've read, some after market seals (Uro is one) do not have the groove to retain the aluminum trims and you'll never be able to install the glass with the trims. To check if your seals are such, make a tool with windshield wiper stainless backing strip, put a slight bend at the end and feel for the groove in the seal.

I've only done a rear defroster glass and it was not difficult. It was a little scary not knowing what to expect but I did a lot of research/ reading and asked lot's questions before tackling the job and it came out well.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

It's definitely leaking. Didn't even take a good rain to show it either.
I'll use the putty and do the replacement when I get to New Mexico.

I wasn't aware the Uro seals didn't have the channel for the chrome trim. My car was sold to me with Uro seals so I'll have to check them.

Wish me a dry next two weeks!

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

There have been lots of issues with Uro parts and many aftermarket seals. If it was me, I'd get OE seals from Mercedes and be sure they fit and seal. Extra cost but most likely worth it. Uro has a horrible reputation on so many of their parts.

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Len
'59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta
'83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD
'88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out
https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles
'03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter
'14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles
'14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles
'15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles

See post #14

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/339965-installing-back-glass-defroster-help-needed.html#post3160466

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Uro seals are no better then OE seals.....OE seals have been sitting on a shelf for over 39 years.....while uro is crap.....they've been made with in this decade most likely......its a flip of the coin....the uro seals have the channel.....I installed one on my rear window....chrome held fine, seal was on its second year with out an issue....its a flip of the coin, as to which you use......but personally I would rather a 40$ seal go bad in 2 years then a 300$ one.....

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I just checked the Uro seals and they do in fact have the channels for the chrome trim.
I thought of replacing the rear seal today but I want to have time to do any necessary rust repair/prevention while the window is out so I just used some automotive window sealing putty to seal up the most egregious cracking.

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

No one has said that the URO Seals do not have a Channel.
What they have said is the trim does not want to say in the channel and that the Channel is too tight.

I cannot recall if that is both the rear and front that has that issue or just one of them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Look at it. Take the old one off is a great learning experience in knowing how the new one goes on.