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#1
11-03-2013, 04:46 PM
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HELP ---- broken shift lever
NOT LEVER.....the shifter shaft broke.
While pulling the donor engine and transmission, we failed to disconnect the shifter linkage, breaking the shift lever on the drivers side of transmission. How do we remove and replace? Would welding the broken lever be a better option?
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more Last edited by daw_two; 11-03-2013 at 05:34 PM. 
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#3
11-03-2013, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Automatic 722.3 1981 300D
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
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#4
11-03-2013, 05:06 PM
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So long as you can find a replacement part...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2995328-post4.html ...it is accessible when you remove the valve body. However, it is always best to replace the gasket between valve body and casing - this is difficult to source as an individual item for a reasonable amount of money...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#5
11-03-2013, 05:16 PM
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Hopefully you didn't tweak the selector shaft. For good measure, replace the bell crank the shift rod attaches to. The picture doesn't show it but there's a bolt that goes tangentially through the shift lever. The shank of the bolt slides through a notch in the selector shaft to hold the bell crank in place. If the bell crank has multiple holes for the shift rod, note which one to use.
  Sixto 87 300D
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#6
11-03-2013, 05:20 PM
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Sixto.....
The shaft we broke is pictured in your second picture.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
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#7
11-03-2013, 05:26 PM
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[edit] Oops, I thought you meant the external piece broke. If the selector shaft broke, I think your best bet is another transmission.
 Sixto 87 300D Last edited by sixto; 11-03-2013 at 05:38 PM.
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#8
11-03-2013, 05:32 PM
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Does this pic help explain what broke? The shaft coming out of the transmission broke.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
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#9
11-03-2013, 06:23 PM
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You need to pull the valve body and inspect the internal shaft housing for damage.
If its not broken then I would just try and slide another one in. My experience is that most valve body pieces are unobtanium, I wonder if the one in my shop would fit it. I have that burnt up 722.369 in my shop "in bits" as stretch calls it.
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 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)  83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head  99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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#10
11-04-2013, 03:42 AM
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Quote:
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#11
11-04-2013, 06:49 AM
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Well.....we have a plan. After pulling the valve body off the OLD transmissions and realizing we cannot access the allen head bolt that is holding the shaft, we started pulling the rear tail housing off enough to access the allen head bolt, we undid the bolt and pulled the shaft out.
Realizing, we don't want to do this to the transmission attached to the back of the engine that is already IN the car, the chief is going to attempt to use the strongest JB Weld to re-attach the broken end. If that doesn't work, we will be using a spare transmission. Thanks everyone for the pics, links, etc.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
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#12
11-04-2013, 07:33 AM
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Its not that big of a deal to pull the tail housing on a tranny in the car. Just drop the rear down a bit and support it, and remove.
I highly highly doubt JBweld will hold up in a vibration/torsional twisting forces situation like that.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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