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  #16  
Old 01-31-2014, 01:54 PM
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Sorry that I posted the question and fled, life has been in the way of getting back to this issue.

Right now I just need the car to be running, regardless of not being able to loosen the IP and adjust my timing.

That you for all the information I was given. I will try the drip method later on in the year when time and weather permit.

I have had an absolute bear of a time trying to get my hands on a Delivery Valve washer. I ordered from the deal what I was told was the correct part before I even tried to tackle the timing. But I was given an overly larger washer. I went back and showed them exactly what I needed and where it was located, they tracked down the washers and the system said that there were two available.

IN THE WHOLE UNITED STATES THERE WERE ONLY TWO NEW DELIVERY VALVE WASHERS IN EXISTENCE.

How is that even possible?? Is there an alternative known source to get them? I've read that Bosch could get me some, but anywhere else?

Hopefully my extinct washers come in today, I need my DD back on the road!

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  #17  
Old 01-31-2014, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
It's not uncommon to need so much adjustment that the pump needs to be removed and reindexed. Any notion that only one or two degrees of adjustment will be needed is completely without basis, especially with 365k miles and unknown history.
Can the timing go off that much that the IP needs to be removed and re-indexed? I have not checked or done a timing adjustment yet but I am seriously looking into it since my 85 300D is getting pretty crappy millage (around 22 mpg) with 157K on the clock. My 83 (sold to JB3) was getting 25 to 28 mpg with twice the miles and I never bothered to check the timing in it.

I have lot's of parts on order for my timing light project. Hopefully it will be successful and come to fruition.
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  #18  
Old 01-31-2014, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Can the timing go off that much that the IP needs to be removed and re-indexed?
It's definitely possible. No way to know until you run out of adjustment. There is also a reasonable possibility that an old IP gasket won't survive an adjustment, so the IP will need to come off, anyway.
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  #19  
Old 01-31-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Can the timing go off that much that the IP needs to be removed and re-indexed? I have not checked or done a timing adjustment yet but I am seriously looking into it since my 85 300D is getting pretty crappy millage (around 22 mpg) with 157K on the clock. My 83 (sold to JB3) was getting 25 to 28 mpg with twice the miles and I never bothered to check the timing in it.

I have lot's of parts on order for my timing light project. Hopefully it will be successful and come to fruition.
If the Fuel Injection Pump has not been touched since it left the Mercedes Factory try to imageine what would have to be worn out for there not to be enough adjustment to time the Fuel Injection Pump.
(Or someone at the Mercedes Factory would have had to install the Fuel Injection Pump without properly centering it.)

For Me the only thing that comes to mind is the Timing Chain or the Timing Gears would have to be in bad shape.
That would put the Valve Timing off also so the fix would either be a new Timing Chain and related Parts or on offset Woodruff Key.

If some previous owner has had the Fuel Injection Pump off then that could be the reason for you to run out of adjustment.
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  #20  
Old 02-01-2014, 11:39 AM
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Bad news, the parts I had on order came in yesterday.... But they were rubber O-rings? It was the only thing that even looked close in the computer diagram that my parts guy pulled up. We both searched and searched the system but couldn't come up with the correct part.

I guess since I have time I'll try my hand at timing again.

But how can I get my DV seal?!?! I've been trying for almost two weeks!
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  #21  
Old 02-01-2014, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by southofantarctica View Post
Bad news, the parts I had on order came in yesterday.... But they were rubber O-rings? It was the only thing that even looked close in the computer diagram that my parts guy pulled up. We both searched and searched the system but couldn't come up with the correct part.

I guess since I have time I'll try my hand at timing again.

But how can I get my DV seal?!?! I've been trying for almost two weeks!
IF you can't get a new DV seal, your only option left is to reuse the old one. Anneal it by heating it up red hot and let it cool slowly. That may do the trick.
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  #22  
Old 02-01-2014, 08:11 PM
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When I re-timed My IP with the Drip Method I had forgot to order a new Crush Washer (there is no O-rings up there on the MW Fuel Injection Pumps).

I never desturbed the Old Crush Wash and simply re-assembled it at the correct Torque.
I figured if it did not leak I would be OK. If it did leak I could at least move the Car out of My Drive way to the Back Yard and get a new Crush Washer later.

As it happened it did not leak and that has been more than 3 years ago.
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  #23  
Old 02-01-2014, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southofantarctica View Post
Bad news, the parts I had on order came in yesterday.... But they were rubber O-rings? It was the only thing that even looked close in the computer diagram that my parts guy pulled up. We both searched and searched the system but couldn't come up with the correct part.

I guess since I have time I'll try my hand at timing again.

But how can I get my DV seal?!?! I've been trying for almost two weeks!
You might have a look at Pelican Parts if for no other reason than to see about a Part Number and matching picture.
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  #24  
Old 02-01-2014, 08:26 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
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Bosch

A service center at Bosch will be able to help you out with the crush washer. You need the numbers off of the side of the IP. If you are not close you can call and have them sent.
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  #25  
Old 02-03-2014, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
IF you can't get a new DV seal, your only option left is to reuse the old one. Anneal it by heating it up red hot and let it cool slowly. That may do the trick.
This was the ticket! That advice now has my car back on the road again. All the same I will try to get in contact with the Bosch people and order me up a handful of washers.

I still feel that the idling issue is fuel related. Tonight after it warmed up and I drove it around, when stopped at lights it would start to sound "off" if I placed (no need to even depress) my foot on the throttle the engine would smooth out nicely. Seem to be slightly retarded?

I'll be looking into the timing stretch next time I have it down. I'm sure it stand to have a woodruf key if nothing else. Lord knows if the previous owner ever touched the inside of the engine... Those valves we terribly right when I was in there last.

Thanks for the help fellas

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